Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Pat Thompson
Page Views: 936 total · 7/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Jul 13, 2008
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Description

Climb up the right side of the chimney on the outside of the blunt arete. Getting off the ground and established is quite tricky. After a few moves some better holds are encountered. After this a horizontal break is encountered allowing a nice rest, before the easier finish.

Probably a bit soft for the 12a grade, considered 11a if the backwall is used.

Location

Far left side of Swiss Wall. Up the hill and left from White Gang Wall. To the right is an unknown 5.8 jug haul.

Protection

5 Bolts to Anchors

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6 Comments

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Hendrixson
Littleton, CO
  5.11a
Hendrixson   Littleton, CO
  5.11a
Downgraded to the established grade of 11a as not using all available features just seems silly. Sep 29, 2014
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
  5.12a
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
  5.12a
I disagree, there are many sport climbing areas where to earn the grade and in my opinion to do the climb you avoid using certain features or cracks. On Main wall you avoid stemming to the back wall on "Heart Shaped Box" and "Limestone Cowgirl". To me the 11a stemming way seems like the variation.

Also thanks for sorting the routes! Oct 6, 2014
Hendrixson
Littleton, CO
  5.11a
Hendrixson   Littleton, CO
  5.11a
Thanks for the thought provoking feedback. I avoid the back wall on Limestone Cowgirl but use it on Swiss Miss. To call one feature on while calling the other off is hypocritical and arbitrary. I suppose it is up to the individual how to approach each route.

I reverted the established grade to 5.12a. Oct 6, 2014
Alec Orenstein
Gallup, NM
  5.12a
Alec Orenstein   Gallup, NM
  5.12a
Definitely 12a without the back wall (or, maybe one might call it v4?). Fun route; good intro to the grade, since the crux is off the deck and the climbing up higher is easier (although still engaging and fun). Stick clip the first bolt definitely. Jul 21, 2017
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.10+
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
  5.10+
stick clip the second bolt too if you're not going to stem.

to me using all available features seems like it should always be the default. if want to say a hold or feature is "off" then make that the variation, as people doing the route for the first time won't know what's "on" or "off" and will just follow the natural line.

this is actually a fairly common occurrence and i'm starting to think it would be nice if MP had some sort of split grades feature for routes like this. what we have now is very confusing as many people rate this climb 11a and many rate it 12a, leaving it consensus 11b/c which is incorrect for either variation. Apr 29, 2018
Tony B
 
Tony B  
 
Short, sweet and hard- 11a... 11d... who cares its really fun! May 16, 2018