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Routes in Swiss Wall

Bleu S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bored Of Inquiry S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Brie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fe Fi Fo Fun S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Feta S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gouda S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nate from Montana S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Suisse Peter S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Swiss Miss S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wild Breed S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Yarlsberg S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Pat Thompson
Page Views: 830 total · 7/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Jul 13, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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16 Opinions

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Description

Climb up the right side of the chimney on the outside of the blunt arete. Getting off the ground and established is quite tricky. After a few moves some better holds are encountered. After this a horizontal break is encountered allowing a nice rest, before the easier finish.

Probably a bit soft for the 12a grade, considered 11a if the backwall is used.

Location

Far left side of Swiss Wall. Up the hill and left from White Gang Wall. To the right is an unknown 5.8 jug haul.

Protection

5 Bolts to Anchors

Photos

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Alec Orenstein
Gallup, NM
  5.12a
Alec Orenstein   Gallup, NM
  5.12a
Definitely 12a without the back wall (or, maybe one might call it v4?). Fun route; good intro to the grade, since the crux is off the deck and the climbing up higher is easier (although still engaging and fun). Stick clip the first bolt definitely. Jul 21, 2017
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
  5.11a
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
  5.11a
Thanks for the thought provoking feedback. I avoid the back wall on Limestone Cowgirl but use it on Swiss Miss. To call one feature on while calling the other off is hypocritical and arbitrary. I suppose it is up to the individual how to approach each route.

I reverted the established grade to 5.12a. Oct 6, 2014
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
I disagree, there are many sport climbing areas where to earn the grade and in my opinion to do the climb you avoid using certain features or cracks. On Main wall you avoid stemming to the back wall on "Heart Shaped Box" and "Limestone Cowgirl". To me the 11a stemming way seems like the variation.

Also thanks for sorting the routes! Oct 6, 2014
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
  5.11a
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
  5.11a
Downgraded to the established grade of 11a as not using all available features just seems silly. Sep 29, 2014