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Routes in East Face

Brain Child S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cannibals S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Conform or Be Cast Out S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Death Tongue S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Drop Out Left T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Drop Out Right T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Farewell to Arms T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Feat S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Missing Mind S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mole's Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Night Country T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nova Express T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pump Lust S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Rage Reduction T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Reductio ad absurdum S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rick and Eric's T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Sanitation Crack T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Side Effect T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Telegraph Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Welcome to My Nightmare T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,787 total · 15/month
Shared By: Willoughby on Jul 13, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Access Issue: Access Notes Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Short, but maybe my favorite route at Snowshed. Well spaced fists and hands in pods, then a respite of jugs to a cave. Plug some stuff into the roof, get the feet high, and make a blind(ish) reach right to escape. Finish by stepping back left and heading up to the chains...Fun, fun, fun!!!!

Location [Suggest Change]

You can just barely see the blocky top of this route in Carville's "East Face" topo that shows Sanitation Crack, Pump Lust, etc. (p. 48). It's up that same gully on the left wall.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Nothing too big necessary. Small cams for the roof are helpful. Two bolts with chains at the top (which are easy to get to from above for a toprope, if you're so inclined).

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Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
3/4 stars all the way!

Steep and wide, this climb is literally a hidden classic concealed within the big chimney (great to escape summer heat and crowds). For variety and physicality, this climb delivers. I found myself pulling face moves to handstacks. Awesome!

I used pro from yellow alien sized (fingers), to a single #4. I believe I used only a #3 camalot and #4 camalot for as wide as the climbing gets, but doubles to #3 may be desirable.

Oh yeah, and don't dab the start by stemming back! You will only be cheating yourself! Jul 14, 2012
Weston L
Summerlin, NV
  5.10b/c
Weston L   Summerlin, NV
  5.10b/c
A bit dirty but a good climb. Typical snowshed in both steepness and variety. That roof is tricky. Jul 26, 2012
Laine Christman
Reno, NV
 
Laine Christman   Reno, NV
 
Stout climb. The rock is a bit suspect in spots especially within the chimney but the pro is pretty bomber. Protect the right crack underneath the roof as the left seems to have some hollowness. Aug 2, 2013

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