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Happy Entrails

5.12c, Sport, 35 ft (11 m),  Avg: 3.4 from 24 votes
FA: Chris Vandiver
New Mexico > Jemez Mountains… > Las Conchas > Love Shack Area
Access Issue: COVID-19 New Mexico Requirements - Updated Nov. 16, 2020 Details

Description

Starts nearly horizontal, coming out of a small cave with a belay bolt in it, then continues steep/ pumpy through 3 bolts of sustained climbing. Interesting mix of holds (pinches, slopers, pockets), excellent rock. The last few moves ease off in difficulty, but the pump factor keeps things interesting to the chains.

Protection

Four bolts and 2-chain anchor. Stick clip the high first bolt.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The anchors are perfect to rig aerial fabric from because of the overhung route.
[Hide Photo] The anchors are perfect to rig aerial fabric from because of the overhung route.
Not the MOST flattering shot of this climb :)
[Hide Photo] Not the MOST flattering shot of this climb :)
Its great to combine climbing with aerial silks! What a dynamic day!
[Hide Photo] Its great to combine climbing with aerial silks! What a dynamic day!
What a fantastic spot to rig a fabric.
[Hide Photo] What a fantastic spot to rig a fabric.
It was so much fun to rig an aerial silk from the anchor and have an aerial session outside. What a beautiful spot for it!
[Hide Photo] It was so much fun to rig an aerial silk from the anchor and have an aerial session outside. What a beautiful spot for it!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] Great Route! Fun short and powerful. 4 stars just for the cool unique holds, the closest thing to tufas I have found in NM.
Usually graded 12d, but seems a bit easier. Jul 13, 2008
William Penner
The 505
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] More like 12b. The funky anchors on the right route were recently replaced. Jul 14, 2008
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] Maybe the high humidity just made it feel like 12c, haha.

The anchors to the right route (Deathgrip) still looked pretty funky when I was on it Saturday. Short two link chains held in place by washers and a nut, on what looked to be smaller than 3/8" stud bolts. Many thanks if the anchors were upgraded yesterday. Jul 14, 2008
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
[Hide Comment] Great name! Jul 14, 2008
William Penner
The 505
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] I replaced them on Sunday. I did not have the right length of camouflage chain with me so at some point in the next few weeks I will replace the regular chain I left. There is now a new bolt above the old right bolt and equalized chains for easier rope pulling. The new anchor is consequently further right and does not put your rope in the stream when it drops. Funny how this climb went for years with no action and now everyone is on it. Jul 14, 2008