Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 385 total · 3/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Jul 13, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Loan Shark climbs the steep south face of Sharksfin on big knobs and is a ton of fun. My old Kimball Lumpy guide calls this 5.8, but it was much easier than the North Face route. Kimball says you can climb the right-facing corner at the right edge of the face. That looked inviting from below (and you could continue with no gear on big knobs up the southeast arĂȘte), but from above, looking down, it looked pretty difficult.

Location

Approach from the north side via the gully below the east face of Sharksfin. We started the climb via short corners on the southeast edge of Sharksfin, since we had to climb on a folded 9mm (our other 9 was stuck at the rap anchor). You can instead start at the bottom of the south face.

Protection

Trad with one old pin about half way up. Nuts and small cams. Belay at the southeast rap anchor.

Photos