Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Castaways

5.11-, Trad, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 16 votes
FA: webster 81
New Hampshire > WM: N Conway > 02. Humphrey's… > 3. Dedication Area

Description

A stiff little number. Ever thinning crack line that ends just in time. Was very hard with fixed knifeblades and rated 5.10 now has bolts.

Location

In the middle of the cliff on a small buttress. The groove line above is Robinson Crusoe.

Protection

thin gear and bolts- tree anchor

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

burlap submariner
[Hide Comment] you would be very hard pressed to find the pg-13 on this route. every move you make in the crack section has bomber gear at your face, the face section has the bent pin but the moves getting to the next bolt are not that bad considering the next two clips are tricky given the streno nature of the arete. great route with great gear. Jan 8, 2011
john strand
southern colo
  5.11-
[Hide Comment] You are prolly right- it's been a while and I have never done it with the bolts. Jan 11, 2011
Jay Knower
Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY
[Hide Comment] I deleted the PG-13 rating. Jan 12, 2011
john strand
southern colo
  5.11-
[Hide Comment] Cool, I guess if you skip the bolts, it might be R by now ! Those KB's were shaky in '82 Jan 17, 2011
burlap submariner
[Hide Comment] climbed this route for the first time in several years yesterday. Forgot how great this route is, the bottom half is strenno laybacking to a decent no hands rest with gear at your feet and the pin at your shoulder. the slabby arete is an excellent test of body tension and slabby edging technique. I found an excellent high foot that helps you get the balanced position for clipping the crux bolt. Such a fun and hard outing! Jun 12, 2014
Ian Grant
  5.11
[Hide Comment] Climbs much better than it looks, get on it! Covered in a thin coat of dirt when I climbed it—bring a brush. May 5, 2023