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Routes in The Dedication Area

Castaways T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Dedication T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Diss-N-Dazz T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
It's Five What? T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Move it or Lose it S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Robinson Crusoe T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Six Bolts and a Plug S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soul Survivor T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: webster 81
Page Views: 824 total, 7/month
Shared By: john strand on Jul 12, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A stiff little number. Ever thinning crack line that ends just in time. Was very hard with fixed knifeblades and rated 5.10 now has bolts.

Location

In the middle of the cliff on a small buttress. The groove line above is Robinson Crusoe.

Protection

thin gear and bolts- tree anchor

Photos

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climbed this route for the first time in several years yesterday. Forgot how great this route is, the bottom half is strenno laybacking to a decent no hands rest with gear at your feet and the pin at your shoulder. the slabby arete is an excellent test of body tension and slabby edging technique. I found an excellent high foot that helps you get the balanced position for clipping the crux bolt. Such a fun and hard outing! Jun 12, 2014
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Cool, I guess if you skip the bolts, it might be R by now ! Those KB's were shaky in '82 Jan 17, 2011
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
I deleted the PG-13 rating. Jan 12, 2011
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
You are prolly right- it's been a while and I have never done it with the bolts. Jan 11, 2011
you would be very hard pressed to find the pg-13 on this route. every move you make in the crack section has bomber gear at your face, the face section has the bent pin but the moves getting to the next bolt are not that bad considering the next two clips are tricky given the streno nature of the arete. great route with great gear. Jan 8, 2011