Windex
5.6 A3,
Trad, Aid, 500 ft (152 m), 3 pitches, Grade III,
Avg: 4 from 1
vote
FA: Chris Harkness, Andrew Knoflicek
Wyoming
> Devils Tower
> S & E Faces
Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
VOLUNTARY JUNE CLIMBING CLOSURE
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
Details:
nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/… Climbing MGMT Plan
nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/… Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.
Description
I couldn't believe this route hadn't been done. Working as a guide out there during the summer of '05, I spotted this line and climbed it on an unseasonably cool July day.
This is just another classic obvious plumb line to the top. This route took about 10 hours and included lots of tricky aid placements; beaks, hooks, shallow tied-off and equalized pins, and some creativity throughout the entire first 2 pitches, and then finishes with a 5.6 chimney. I never did fall on the route, though it seemed a fall would have been clean, and on occasion, one manages to find a fairly solid pin placement.
I would be very interested to hear anyone's comments on this route. I believe this will be thoroughly enjoyable for any aid climber or big wall climber in training(as would many of the routes on the tower, I'm sure).
Location
This is the left facing dihedral on the right side of the "Window" formation. One crack left of "Lucifer's Ledges", and four cracks right of "The Skunk". A bit of a scramble to get to the base of the route. We descended the Standard Meadows rappel route.
Protection
Nothing fixed. Bring a couple hooks, birdbeaks, knifeblades, lost arrows, tat for tying off, and a single standard rack to #4 Camalot (heavy on small stuff).
[Hide Photo] Belaying at the top of pitch 2. The roof was a little tricky.
[Hide Photo] It's the dihedral on the right. As you can see, there are still many plumb lines that have still not been climbed...