[Hide Comment] A potential 11a direct start to Sundance, but beware - it's harder than it looks from the ground and there's not a great stance to clip the first bolt from. Jul 19, 2009

[Hide Comment] The upper part of the arête section seems unclimbable, at least at 12b. Jan 7, 2018

[Hide Comment] I remember moving right a bit to finish at the end, on somewhat friable holds. Or are you saying it has become harder getting to the last bolt (while still more or less on the arête)? The rock didn't seem bomber, and, it seemed hard. IMO, it could easily have changed. Jan 7, 2018

[Hide Comment] According to my topo, from the top (3rd) bolt, you traverse quite a bit to the right (maybe 10 feet), then up. There's an 11a move past the first bolt, then 5.10 R from the 2nd to 3rd bolt. The crux after the 3rd bolt isn't as scary as getting up to the 3rd bolt.

For toproping, a 5-inch CD at Log Ledge is nice to prevent a swing from the top moves. Jan 7, 2018

[Hide Comment] I was confused by this route. I bearhugged the arete rather than climbing it with both feet on the face while palming. It seemed silly not to use the crimps around the arete on the left side. Contrived much? Jun 10, 2019

[Hide Comment] Yes, at the "arete" section I remember "bear-hugging" or straddling the arete. I don't think the top section goes (crux, 12b/c) unless you move a considerable distance away from the arete onto the face to the right.

You can use the first bolt (or first two bolts?) for a direct start (11a) to Sundance, moving left into the corner. Jun 16, 2019

[Hide Comment] Thanks Bob. I was messing around on this one and really didnt understand where the "line" went despite the prominent feature. Jun 16, 2019

[Hide Comment] I climbed up the left side of the arete until I gained a few good footholds than stepped around onto the right side of the arete. Once I got established on the face I left the arete and angled up and right on thin edges to the ledge. I thought the bottom move to be mid-grade 11 and the upper crux to be solid 12c if not 12d. The second and third bolts are in deceiving locations. It makes more sense to TR this route before leading it, to work out the line, because it doesn't exactly go where the bolts are. I think this climb has gotten harder due to some flakes breaking off but the holds are fairly solid enough now if you climb precisely and use the right ones. Mar 13, 2020