Great Green Gobs of Greasy Grimey Greenie Guts
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | Alli Rainey |
Page Views: | 1,333 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | Matt Richardson on Jul 9, 2008 |
Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
This route is one of a triad of moderate routes that lay just to the right of Wyoming Flower Child. Leave your guns at home as this is no enduro-pumpfest. To finish this route, you will need to stay on your toes (literally).
Start just to the left of Wafer thin Mint, follow a line of six bolt through thin edges to the anchors of aforementioned route. You will find that getting off the ground is most likely the most difficult part of this route. However, thin-ness abounds and you will need to stay balanced throughout the climb.
Although similar in its technical nature to Wafer thin Mint, I found this route to be considerably more enjoyable as the rock seemed a little nicer. Don't fall on this thing though, as you will probably end up sliding across the horizontal knife edges that make up this route.
Start just to the left of Wafer thin Mint, follow a line of six bolt through thin edges to the anchors of aforementioned route. You will find that getting off the ground is most likely the most difficult part of this route. However, thin-ness abounds and you will need to stay balanced throughout the climb.
Although similar in its technical nature to Wafer thin Mint, I found this route to be considerably more enjoyable as the rock seemed a little nicer. Don't fall on this thing though, as you will probably end up sliding across the horizontal knife edges that make up this route.
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