Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Darrell Hensel, 1991
Page Views: 4,841 total · 38/month
Shared By: Darrell Hensel on Jul 8, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is on superb rock with great climbing, and has a tricky and powerful crux. The headwall of the route is unusually steep rock for Suicide.

Pitch 1: Climb one of, Paisano Chimney, Clockwork Orange, or Euphoria.

Pitch 2: Follow the bolts directly across from the ledge. Slightly runout slab climbing (10c) leads past 3 bolts to the crux headwall that is the right side of the Caliente intrusion. Steep reachy edging leads past two bolts (11c) to the crux bolt at the top of the intrusion (13a). The crux bouldering sequence is rather inobvious and will pose a difficult onsight problem. From the top of the intrusion easier (10d) climbing leads past 3 more bolts to the top.

Location

Right of Caliente. Start at base of Paisano Chimney.

Protection

Bolts, plus gear for whatever first pitch is climbed. Cams up to 2" or 3" for the summit belay.

Photos

johannsolo
So Cal, now in Sandy, UT
  5.12c
johannsolo   So Cal, now in Sandy, UT
  5.12c
Simply the best. Perfect rock, perfect route. As good as it gets. Jul 17, 2011