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Routes in Sunshine Face - Left Side

B.C.'s Ouch Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Caliente T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Chisholm Trail T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Clockwork Orange T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Domestic Friction S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Euphoria T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1
Hit It, Ethel T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Man Who Fell to Earth, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Paisano Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Runout in Reverse T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Someone You're Not T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Source, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Tar and Feathers T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Yaniro's Arch TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Darrell Hensel, 1991
Page Views: 4,656 total, 41/month
Shared By: Darrell Hensel on Jul 8, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is on superb rock with great climbing, and has a tricky and powerful crux. The headwall of the route is unusually steep rock for Suicide.

Pitch 1: Climb one of, Paisano Chimney, Clockwork Orange, or Euphoria.

Pitch 2: Follow the bolts directly across from the ledge. Slightly runout slab climbing (10c) leads past 3 bolts to the crux headwall that is the right side of the Caliente intrusion. Steep reachy edging leads past two bolts (11c) to the crux bolt at the top of the intrusion (13a). The crux bouldering sequence is rather inobvious and will pose a difficult onsight problem. From the top of the intrusion easier (10d) climbing leads past 3 more bolts to the top.

Location

Right of Caliente. Start at base of Paisano Chimney.

Protection

Bolts, plus gear for whatever first pitch is climbed. Cams up to 2" or 3" for the summit belay.

Photos

johannsolo
So Cal
  5.12c
johannsolo   So Cal
  5.12c
Simply the best. Perfect rock, perfect route. As good as it gets. Jul 17, 2011