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Super Mama (Direct)

5.13b, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 3.9 from 24 votes
FA: M. Wendling - Super Mama, (Josh Merriam- Direct 8-31-08?)
Wyoming > Ten Sleep Canyon > French Cattle R… > Grasshopper Wall
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Description

On July 4th, 2008 during the 10th Ten Sleep climbing Festival, I returned to the French Cattle Ranch to add bolts for the direct start to this beautiful line. The original start, shared with Sugar Mama, traversed in from the left following a crack which peters out as it gains the gold streak at the fifth bolt. Long moves between amazing pockets and small crimps lead up the remaining six bolts.

Four new bolts go directly up the gold streak to the beginning of the original crux. Start at the eye level flake and do some thin slab moves at the second bolt. Then zig zag a bit following the best holds you can find till joining the original line.

The upper section has many hard, long moves up vertical terrain with marginal feet. I particularly love the "peanut" hold which is a shallow oblong pocket for your index and ring, but too pinched off for the middle. A pair of good rest holds allow a shake before the undercling and crimp sequence guarding the last bolt before the anchors.

The original guide called this the best line on the wall, and I feel that the direct start improves the continuity and the aesthetics. I'd give it a quality rating of three beautiful ladies wrapped in two American flags.

Location

climbs a Gold streak pinned between two grey/blue patches.

Locate the wide crack/chimney start for "Escaping the pod", and then diagonaling up and right, the crack start for "Sugar Mama". There is a flake on the wall in the gold streak at the base of the direct line.

Protection

10 draws, the anchor has an open shunt, and should have a convenience 'biner on the other bolt.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Crux! Photo by Serra Barron
[Hide Photo] Crux! Photo by Serra Barron
reaching for the peanut shaped pocket at the 6th bolt
[Hide Photo] reaching for the peanut shaped pocket at the 6th bolt
a thin undercling move at the last bolt guards the anchors
[Hide Photo] a thin undercling move at the last bolt guards the anchors
Beautiful stone on this pitch.
[Hide Photo] Beautiful stone on this pitch.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO
  5.13b
[Hide Comment] Finally! Labor day weekend 2008 I was able to put the whole route together on lead. My first 13!

I mean no disrespect to the original ascencionist, in fact I met and discussed the line with Allie and she commented how she always wondered why it wasn't done straight up. I love this climb and hope others will enjoy having the alternative of starting the line direct. Sep 1, 2008
Steven Lucarelli
Izola, SI
[Hide Comment] Nice Work Dude!!! Sep 16, 2008
[Hide Comment] Sorry, Alli Rainey did not make the FA of Super Mama- I did. Nov 30, 2008
WAGbag
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] I thought the first 5 bolts ran straight up, no zig zag, just to the left of the bolt line. At 5'8" (-2) I could just every so slightly reach the crimp at around bolt 2. At bolt 7 the clip is hard but you probably don't need to skip. I used the gaston and clipped at waist height. Jul 14, 2013
Natalie Likes Turtles
Hueco Tanks
[Hide Comment] Any shortie beta is much appreciated! Jul 26, 2015
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
  5.13b
[Hide Comment] Great route. This things has some fingery holds. Sep 13, 2018
Aaron Townsley
Ten Sleep WY
[Hide Comment] Anchors updated 7/25/23 by the Bighorn Anchor Initiative. Hardware provided by the Bighorn Climbers Coalition & ASCA. Your membership & donations to both associations go directly toward keeping routes safe #loweroffinitiative Jul 25, 2023