Avg: 3.9 from 12 votes
|Type:||Sport, 90 ft (27 m)|
|FA:||M. Wendling - Super Mama, (Josh Merriam- Direct 8-31-08?)|
|Page Views:||5,749 total · 38/month|
|Shared By:||Joshua Merriam on Jul 8, 2008|
|Admins:||Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson|
Four new bolts go directly up the gold streak to the beginning of the original crux. Start at the eye level flake and do some thin slab moves at the second bolt. Then zig zag a bit following the best holds you can find till joining the original line.
The upper section has many hard, long moves up vertical terrain with marginal feet. I particularly love the "peanut" hold which is a shallow oblong pocket for your index and ring, but too pinched off for the middle. A pair of good rest holds allow a shake before the undercling and crimp sequence guarding the last bolt before the anchors.
The original guide called this the best line on the wall, and I feel that the direct start improves the continuity and the aesthetics. I'd give it a quality rating of three beautiful ladies wrapped in two American flags.
Locate the wide crack/chimney start for "Escaping the pod", and then diagonaling up and right, the crack start for "Sugar Mama". There is a flake on the wall in the gold streak at the base of the direct line.