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Routes in The Grasshopper Wall

Blue Light Special S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Bro Job S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Dances With Cows S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Escape From the Pod S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Esplanada S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hot Dog S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kielbasa S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Little Smokey S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sugar Mama S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Super Mama (Direct) S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: M. Wendling - Super Mama, (Josh Merriam- Direct 8-31-08?)
Page Views: 4,336 total, 38/month
Shared By: Joshua Merriam on Jul 8, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

On July 4th, 2008 during the 10th Ten Sleep climbing Festival, I returned to the French Cattle Ranch to add bolts for the direct start to this beautiful line. The original start, shared with Sugar Mama, traversed in from the left following a crack which peters out as it gains the gold streak at the fifth bolt. Long moves between amazing pockets and small crimps lead up the remaining six bolts.

Four new bolts go directly up the gold streak to the beginning of the original crux. Start at the eye level flake and do some thin slab moves at the second bolt. Then zig zag a bit following the best holds you can find till joining the original line.

The upper section has many hard, long moves up vertical terrain with marginal feet. I particularly love the "peanut" hold which is a shallow oblong pocket for your index and ring, but too pinched off for the middle. A pair of good rest holds allow a shake before the undercling and crimp sequence guarding the last bolt before the anchors.

The original guide called this the best line on the wall, and I feel that the direct start improves the continuity and the aesthetics. I'd give it a quality rating of three beautiful ladies wrapped in two American flags.

Location

climbs a Gold streak pinned between two grey/blue patches.

Locate the wide crack/chimney start for "Escaping the pod", and then diagonaling up and right, the crack start for "Sugar Mama". There is a flake on the wall in the gold streak at the base of the direct line.

Protection

10 draws, the anchor has an open shunt, and should have a convenience 'biner on the other bolt.

Photos

Any shortie beta is much appreciated! Jul 26, 2015
WAGbag
Denver, CO
WAGbag   Denver, CO  
I thought the first 5 bolts ran straight up, no zig zag, just to the left of the bolt line. At 5'8" (-2) I could just every so slightly reach the crimp at around bolt 2. At bolt 7 the clip is hard but you probably don't need to skip. I used the gaston and clipped at waist height. Jul 14, 2013
Sorry, Alli Rainey did not make the FA of Super Mama- I did. Nov 30, 2008
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
Nice Work Dude!!! Sep 16, 2008
Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO
 
Joshua Merriam   Boulder, CO
 
Finally! Labor day weekend 2008 I was able to put the whole route together on lead. My first 13!

I mean no disrespect to the original ascencionist, in fact I met and discussed the line with Allie and she commented how she always wondered why it wasn't done straight up. I love this climb and hope others will enjoy having the alternative of starting the line direct. Sep 1, 2008