Avg: 4 from 20 votes
|Type:||Sport, 90 ft (27 m)|
|FA:||M. Wendling - Super Mama, (Josh Merriam- Direct 8-31-08?)|
|Page Views:||6,609 total · 38/month|
|Shared By:||Joshua Merriam on Jul 8, 2008|
|Admins:||Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson|
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Four new bolts go directly up the gold streak to the beginning of the original crux. Start at the eye level flake and do some thin slab moves at the second bolt. Then zig zag a bit following the best holds you can find till joining the original line.
The upper section has many hard, long moves up vertical terrain with marginal feet. I particularly love the "peanut" hold which is a shallow oblong pocket for your index and ring, but too pinched off for the middle. A pair of good rest holds allow a shake before the undercling and crimp sequence guarding the last bolt before the anchors.
The original guide called this the best line on the wall, and I feel that the direct start improves the continuity and the aesthetics. I'd give it a quality rating of three beautiful ladies wrapped in two American flags.
Locate the wide crack/chimney start for "Escaping the pod", and then diagonaling up and right, the crack start for "Sugar Mama". There is a flake on the wall in the gold streak at the base of the direct line.