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Green Book
5.9,
Trad, 30 ft (9 m),
Avg: 3.1 from 38
votes
FA: unknown
California
> San Diego County
> S San Diego County
> McCain Valley
> Lowenbrau Pinnacle
Description
The whole climb is consistent difficulty. Finger dihedral most of the climb with cool stemming positions. Easy exit for finish with fist crack/jug.
Location
About 35ft to the right of Direct North Boulder. It's easy to find because it's the cleanest dihedral that's begging for you to climb it. You can either rap from the anchor or continue right and up to link up with Direct Service or the face.
Protection
Sm-med sized gear. Optional large pro near the top and a bolted anchor at the finish.
[Hide Photo] I lead the easier route to the left first, then set up a top rope for this one. It's a pretty easy layback for new beginners, if you're not comfortable to lead it quite yet. Great route to teach so…
[Hide Photo] The Green Book. Whippet Thin (.11?) moves up and left across the face, while Short Link moves right past the squeeze and onto the featured face.
[Hide Comment] Great climb!!! Three-to-four finger-and-smaller master cams or aliens recommended if you're not a confident 5.9 leader. I saw skilled climbers skipping a placement, but there's a risk of decking if you don't place a second piece soon after the first. I'd recommend a minimum of three placements.
Mar 2, 2009
[Hide Comment] A newer bolt directly above the Green Book makes it even easier to link GB to Direct Service and reach the top of the Pinnacle in one long pitch. Communication gets difficult once the leader gets through the Short Link, and there is a little unavoidable rope drag, but on the whole it's an interestingly varied and well-protected climb. 60M rope requires 2 rappels to reach the ground.
Dec 17, 2010
[Hide Comment] I thought this a steeper, mirror image of the lieback at the end of the 1st pitch of Fingertrip in tahquitz. It is also similar to Popular Mechanics in jtree. In short, the green book is really good! You must climb it!
Yellow Metolius most of the way which is really nice locks for most normal human-sized fingers.
Sep 12, 2020
[Hide Comment] If anyone is wondering (as I was), if you take a second pitch to the top of the formation a 60m will just get you back to the little starting ledge of Green Book when rapping.
Feb 17, 2023
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Flagstaff, AZ
San Diego, CA
Yellow Metolius most of the way which is really nice locks for most normal human-sized fingers. Sep 12, 2020
San Diego