PRINT: Rock Climb Zapatista, El Potrero Chico

Zapatista

5.12b/c, Sport, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches, Grade II,

Avg: 3.2 from 27 votes
FA: James Harrison, Matt Greco, Chad Cassidy, & Jeb Vetters - 1998
International > N America > Mexico > Nuevo Leon > El Potrero Chico > El Toro (The Fr… > Zapatista Wall

Description

P1: 5.11a

P2: 5.11b

P3: 5.11d

P4: 5.12a

P5: 5.11b

A long (50m) 1st pitch, is followed by several 25-30m pitches. Bring 18 or so draws plus two ropes to descend. (Two ropes only necessary for the first pitch)

Descent: There's 4 raps. From the top rap even to the top of the 4th pitch but to the anchor 8m left of it. The next rap is 50m and goes straight down to gold rap rings above a yucca plant. Then 30m down and right, followed by the last rap of 50m to the ground.

Alternatively rappel the route via the same anchors used on the climb, be sure to place directionals on the 2 traverse pitches.

Location: Hike up the mining road for a couple of minutes and turn left on the trail for El Bobo. Follow the red painted arrows/dots up past El Bobo (the dunce-hat-shaped formation) and continue up the third class ridge. When you get to the red arrows pointing in different directions head right for the Zapatista route. There may be a fixed line over the scree to the base of the route.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Last pitch

last pitch!

a monkey pulling roof

3rd or 11d pitch. great technical climbing

Dylan belaying at the start of the last 11b pitch

Looking up at crux roof on pitch 4

the last pitch. awesome

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Patrick Bagley

The first two pitches are probably easier than 5.11 and not very memorable. The 5.11d pitch was solid for the grade, bouldery and memorable. The 5.12a pitch was particularly hard for the grade. Perhaps a key hold broke off? The last 5.11b pitch was exposed, memorable and rad. Despite the route being pretty cool, I probably wouldn't do it again. Sep 27, 2008

calvino
Sedro Woolley

This was my favorite climb at Potrero. I liked it more than 3 Stone Place and El Diablo Sendero. Bold Climbing, great exposure, and a wild setting. Mar 7, 2012

ben dorsey
lake louise, AB

5.12a

We took two 70 meter ropes b/c that is what we had. we only made one double rope rappel on the second rap. It seemed like we could have swung over to the start of the 12a pitch and rapped from there. I am curious if a 70m will make it to the gold rings b/c this would lighten the load and logistics.
Great route!
Dec 26, 2012

A C
Your moms house

5.12

Legend has it that some of the holds broke on the route, making it slightly harder than the advertised 12a grade. Don't let this deter you though, the climb is solid and fun (especially the last pitch). Feb 19, 2018

Michael Dom

I rapped the route with a single 70m rope but swung to the left on the P1 rap and scrambled down like 10 feet. The roof pitch is bolted tight. The route doesn't summit unfortunately, just sort of stops in the upper 2/3 of the wall. The pitches are pretty short so you can link easily. Apr 16, 2020

Madison Larson
Bozeman, MT

5.12

Climbing: 4 stars, great movement, fun climbing
Rapping the route: 2 stars, I would recommend clipping directionals for the second rap to make it way better
Approach: 1 star, lots of loose sliding rock for last 200 m to the base of the route was unpleasant. Jan 6, 2022

Simon Mrowiec
Bishop, CA

5.12

An 80m gets you to the ground perfectly on p1 rap (the longest). Jan 9, 2022

DrRockso RRG
Red River Gorge, KY

5.12d

Crux pitch is substantially harder than 12a, the crux bolt was smashed by rockfall but has a quicklink on it making it still clippable. We added quicklinks to a couple anchors, you can now rap the route via all the same anchors used for ascending. Rappel can be done with a single 70m excluding the first pitch which would require a downclimb from ~25 feet or so. Feb 21, 2022

Mike Smith
Edwards, CO

Sweet route, all the pitches are engaging and have interesting movement. The crux pitch feels pretty dang stout. Also, there's definitely some loose handholds on the crux pitch on some pretty crucial holds that were well chalked up. I marked them with x's. Be heads up on this section as the belayer is directly underneath.
We also rapped the route with a 70 meter without too much difficulty, just make sure to clip directionals on the way down. On rapping the first pitch we used a carabiner block and offset the middle mark by 30 feet. rapped down a single strand, attached some cordellettes and other long things to then pull the rope.
Sick route, get after it. Jan 2, 2024