[Hide Comment] first pitch can be climbed then escaped by rapping down to Satori P1 anchors then rap to ground. Did this as there was a big line of people on Satori so did P1 3SP instead and then got rained off.
I thought the 11c grade was a bit soft. Great first pitch but doesnt get climbed enough so expect a little dirt and snags going thru the bushes. Cruxes are bolted tight (at least on the pitch i climbed) Cant wait to go back and do the whole route.
Love that place! Jun 21, 2010

[Hide Comment] This is a good adventure on decent rock. With super thin face climbing and many endurance roof moves, this will definitely hold your attention all the way to the top. Sure, it is overgrown, but that is part of the fun. Mar 7, 2012

[Hide Comment] Some 4-star climbing for sure (esp. the rad sustained p3 and p5), if you strip away the loose/hollow rock here and there, and a massive amount of shrubbery. However, given the combined nature of the long pitches, technical thin climbing, and dirt and shrubbery, I probably wouldn't climb this again. Navigating these variables up and especially down (the raps were awful) took us the better potion of the day, all for basically just 4-5 pitches of climbing. If/when this thing ever cleans up substantially, it would be a lot more fun. Seems unlikely though, without a major concerted gardening effort.

Also of note:
- There was a lot of rust on the nuts and washes of many placements. The bolts and hangers themselves looked generally good, so it's almost as if the kits used to equip the route weren't all-stainless-steel.
- There is a brand new set of belay bolts at the top of P4 (no more single-bolt and cord nonsense), so I'd highly recommend linking P3-4 because the top-of-P4 ledge is much cushier than the top-of-P3 one. Jan 14, 2020

[Hide Comment] Climbing was quite good in this one and the raps were straightforward with no drama if you know how to navigate vegetation. Lots of hollow rock, but nothing that broke on me. P5 was the standout crux Feb 24, 2020

[Hide Comment] Don’t let the ridiculous account of day ruining raps scare you off this mega classic, they were unbelievably straight forward. And in terms of gardening, if you wanna see a vegetated climb, hit the last couple pitches of Canadian controversy. This thing is clean AF Feb 19, 2024

[Hide Comment] It's a decent route with engaging climbing, as long as you skip the last pitch. There is so much wandering off line to clip the bolts, which greatly detracts from a quality finish to the route. If some of these bolts got moved, as well as a few others on the route, it'd be a very worthwhile outing. Dec 30, 2024