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5.11b, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 3.3 from 36 votes
FA: Stan Price
Wyoming > Ten Sleep Canyon > Wall of Denial
Warning Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT DetailsDrop down

Description

The name says it all, and this is definitely one of the best! Nine Pins shares the first 3 bolt with this route but where Nine Pins goes left continue straight up. Vertical climbing leads you to an incredible crux sequence and then a nice edge with an anchor

Location

This route is easily located by just following the cold air to the refrigerator chimney. Once at the Chimney just look at the right hand wall.

Protection

12 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

July 2011: After rockfall. Not sure what shape the route is in.  It looked like the bolts were still there, but there are some dings on the face.
[Hide Photo] July 2011: After rockfall. Not sure what shape the route is in. It looked like the bolts were still there, but there are some dings on the face.
Jaclyn on redpoint!
[Hide Photo] Jaclyn on redpoint!
September 2009: before rockfall. Note the roof on the right facing dihedral.
[Hide Photo] September 2009: before rockfall. Note the roof on the right facing dihedral.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Elijah Flenner
Fort Collins, CO
[Hide Comment] We went to climb this route on August 5th 2012 and there was a chalk skull and crossbones at the base and sticks in the first bolt. We took this as a sign and stayed off it. Is there anything dangerous about this route? Did the rockfall damage something? Aug 7, 2012
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
[Hide Comment] Yes Aug 8, 2012
Toby Butterfield
Portland, OR
[Hide Comment] This route no longer exists due to rockfall. Sep 3, 2012
Flacker
Lander, WY
[Hide Comment] This route just needs a bolt added around the 5 bolt or so, and a good brush down, then it'll be climbable again... and a little bit harder Jul 9, 2013
TJ Esposito
San Diego, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Got on this on Memorial Day, super fun route! Some holds are a little dusty.

Route is still mostly climbable and very fun! Missing a bolt that could put you into groundfall range from 30 feet up or so, with some cruxiness before it. Bring your lead head for this and a few alpines to lower the clip down for other leaders with you who might want a more reasonable clipping stance.

There's a lower-off biner before the ledge up top to lower off of, might be worth being familiar with one-bolt lowering (see "Lowering with Prussik" on p2 of petzl.com/files/all/en/acti…). The ledge up top is covered with small and large chunks of rock and slightly sloping, don't try to reach the actual anchors if you value your belayer's life.

Oh and the chimney to the left blows out icy air, even when ambient temps are hot. Might want a jacket as the belayer. Stick your water bottles in there to get them cold! May 29, 2014
Wade Lippincott
Thermopolis, WY
[Hide Comment] This route should not be climbed until the re bolt is complete and the upper ledge is cleaned for your safety. There are plenty of stellar routes to go-around in Ten Sleep! Jun 3, 2018
Jared Fehr
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] No safety issues, missing bolt seems to have been replaced and there is a new 2 bolt anchor below the ledge that would seem to address safety concerns mentioned above. Boy that chimney is FRIDGID! Jun 14, 2023