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Routes in Middle Rock

Albuquerque Route T,S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bats in the Belfry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bells in the Belfry S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Cowboy Bob's Chickenhead Delight T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mary Poppins in the Belfry S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Unknown (East of ABQ) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, TR, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 175 total, 2/month
Shared By: Chris Wenker on Jul 7, 2008
Admins: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Description

This nice face climb passes two bolts (and an optional cam placement) to a third bolt at the well-protected crux overlap/bulge. More nice friction face leads past one more bolt to an easy stance at the anchors in a nice exposed ampitheatre below the headwall. Easy to set this one for a toprope with a 60m rope.

Described by both Foley (2005) and Jackson (2006).

Location

Ascends near the center of the southern face of Middle Rock. When approaching from the parking lot, the social trails generally lead you to the middle-western end of Middle Rock (near Bats in the Belfry), and the Albuquerque route lies about 65 feet farther right, around the massive spruce tree that grows right next to the wall (yeah, I know, that's not all that helpful).

Protection

Four bolts lead to a 2-bolt anchor (no chains). After the second bolt, it is possible to traverse slightly left to a quartz-filled seam and place a cam (any from #.75 to #2 camalot) with a long runner. You can easily clip the 3rd bolt before working out the crux bulge.

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