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Routes in Teen Queens' Crag

Too Little Too Late (AKA: Discipline) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Too Much Too Soon (AKA: Freedom) T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Tony Bubb, Tim Davis, 7/08
Page Views: 60 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jul 6, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Season raptor closures Details

Description

A good climb that starts off moderate... and stays that way. Ascend the crack past some slabby 5.7 moves on sloper feet and get a piece or two of gear in whenever you can. As the climb rises up on the line, you pass a 3-foot tall dwarfed pine after just a few meters, and then a tiny sampling after a dozen meters or so. As you progress the gear becomes more plentiful and straight-forward. The crux is where the crack turns more vertical in a dark section of rock and you can jam or protect within the cracks contained inside an Off-Width looking crack. jam and lay-back the surprisingly good section and continue to the top. Continue eastward along the top to a large hueco and belay off of a stopper and some medium cams, and add a long runner to the fixed rap above "Too Little Too Late" if so desired.

Location

Towards the right hand end of the West Face of the crag, see a crack that starts from the ground and rises up and left at a shallow angle, following a shallow ramp-like line and cracks past a small pine (3') and then even smaller pine (2') and then out and up to a vertical section in dark clean rock that looks wide, but takes great jams and cams... and then follow the system to the top.

Protection

A full set of nuts and cams up to 3.5" or 4" and including a few extra 2-3" cams. Protection is not always present or available initially, as is often the case on low angle climbing, but it is frequent and good enough to keep the route safe. Take a lot of 2' slings and hang onto some of them for the end- don't place 'Too Much Too Soon' and end up with rope drag.

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