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The Good Stuff

5.7, Sport,  Avg: 2.2 from 58 votes
FA: Brian Shelton, Mike Heinrichs, Stewart Green
Colorado > Colorado Springs > Red Rock Canyon… > Whale
Warning Access Issue: Reopened after flood damage! DetailsDrop down

Description

Easy climbing with some interesting moves to headwall (more of a bulge)... then a simple walk up past final bolt to anchors. Climb up a series of steps to and past bolt 2. For the easiest line, begin traversing right at bolt 3 and then go staight up and over using some large diagonal ledges.

Location

Right side of a large tree on the base trail of Whale (route # 17 in Stewart Green's book). The tree is the first big one left of the landmark thin pine.

Protection

6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Myself leading the lower portion of the route.
[Hide Photo] Myself leading the lower portion of the route.
Dave with a key left foot at the crux.
[Hide Photo] Dave with a key left foot at the crux.
Laura leading the Good Stuff.<br> <br> Photo by Ben.
[Hide Photo] Laura leading the Good Stuff. Photo by Ben.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jim Gloeckler
Denver, Colo.
[Hide Comment] If you are not worried about ratings or the lack of difficulty, this climb is just fun!! Do it and enjoy yourself for the 5 min. it takes to reach the anchors. Mar 16, 2010
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
[Hide Comment] This route seemed a bit sandy. A toothbrush might come in handy. Mar 2, 2011
Arlo F Niederer
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.6
[Hide Comment] There is a great pocket for your left foot at the crux. It's hard to see from above, so you need to remember where it is.

Reminds me of hard to see from above pockets at Shelf Road.

Climb is a bit harder if you don't use it. Nov 12, 2015
David Tennant
Denver, CO
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Route wanders from left to right and then back left, so extend your draws or enjoy the rope drag. Last 20 ft is a 4th class ramp. Nov 13, 2015
Robby Purple
Boulder, CO
  5.8
[Hide Comment] I found this to be a bit of a startling warm-up, especially since the first comment on this climb is talking about how easy it is. Maybe it's not too bad if all you climb is low-angle friction slab without chalk, but I thought it was pretty hard. My calves got quite pumped, and I felt like I was going to slip off the route for most of the climb. This route and others near it are pretty sandy, which doesn't help the head game. Oct 2, 2022
PPCA Pikes Peak Climbers Alliance
[Hide Comment] We updated the anchor and added Mussy hooks. Please consider a donation to the PPCA or ASCA for further hardware updates. Dec 17, 2023