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Routes in The Warlock
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Bird of Prey T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Dragon's Back T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Flying Warlocks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ghostbumps T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Howling, The T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Imaginary Voyage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Planet Waves T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Romantic Warrior T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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S Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Sarcophagus, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sea of Tranquility T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 |
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South Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Spell, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Titanic, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Unknown T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 9 pitches |
| FA: | E.C. Joe & John Peca (V 5.10 A4) FFA: Randy Leavitt, Tony Yaniro |
| Page Views: | 55,273 total · 288/month |
| Shared By: | Mason Earle on Jul 6, 2008 · Updates |
| Admins: | Cory B, Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Romantic Warrior is considered by many to be the crown jewel of the needles. Its long, steep, hard, and by most standards, perfect. The climbing is thin and technical, with thought-provoking cruxes. Romantic Warrior boasts some of the best corner pitches in the country.
P1-10a: Probably the least spectacular pitch of the climb, start up a greasy corner off a ledge, and continue up into the prominent corner. Continue up 5.7 to a 2-bolt belay on the right wall.
P2-5.7: "The Living Corner" Continue up the corner using features on either side, as well as the hand crack. Bolt belay out left on a ledge before corner steepens. Best 5.7 pitch on earth?
P3-10d: Continue up the corner as it steepens. Around the bulge, it eases off and the bolt belay is on the left wall. Short pitch.
P4-12a: Continue up the very thin corner passing a fixed pin near the end of the pitch. Tricky last move. Belay on the small ledge under the roof. Short pitch.
P5-12a: Campus out right, passing a fixed pin, following the crack as it widens and puts you on a massive sloping ledge. Another short pitch.
P6-5.8: Traverse out right, following the crack, eventually down climbing the slab to a flat ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.
P7-12b: "The Book of Deception" Climb back up the slab to the pedestal at the base of the intimidating corner. Stem and lieback past dubious fixed gear(copperhead?) up to a hanging bolt belay.
P8-11++: Continue up the thin corner using similar techniques as the previous pitch. bolt belay on the left.
P9-10a: Climb up about ten feet and traverse out right to slabby ground, ignoring the bolt straight above you. Sprint up the final juggy slab to the top of the southern summit.
P1-10a: Probably the least spectacular pitch of the climb, start up a greasy corner off a ledge, and continue up into the prominent corner. Continue up 5.7 to a 2-bolt belay on the right wall.
P2-5.7: "The Living Corner" Continue up the corner using features on either side, as well as the hand crack. Bolt belay out left on a ledge before corner steepens. Best 5.7 pitch on earth?
P3-10d: Continue up the corner as it steepens. Around the bulge, it eases off and the bolt belay is on the left wall. Short pitch.
P4-12a: Continue up the very thin corner passing a fixed pin near the end of the pitch. Tricky last move. Belay on the small ledge under the roof. Short pitch.
P5-12a: Campus out right, passing a fixed pin, following the crack as it widens and puts you on a massive sloping ledge. Another short pitch.
P6-5.8: Traverse out right, following the crack, eventually down climbing the slab to a flat ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.
P7-12b: "The Book of Deception" Climb back up the slab to the pedestal at the base of the intimidating corner. Stem and lieback past dubious fixed gear(copperhead?) up to a hanging bolt belay.
P8-11++: Continue up the thin corner using similar techniques as the previous pitch. bolt belay on the left.
P9-10a: Climb up about ten feet and traverse out right to slabby ground, ignoring the bolt straight above you. Sprint up the final juggy slab to the top of the southern summit.
Location
Approach by heading down the main gully in between the witch and sorcerer and head left as soon as possible, following the base of the cliff. once below the Warlock, head up, looking for the base of the route(the route is very obvious).
Descend by rapping off the north/highest summit. Possible with a single 70m rope.
Descend by rapping off the north/highest summit. Possible with a single 70m rope.
Photos
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