[Hide Comment] Did we do the right route? I think so, but just 8 bolts. What's with the 12 draws?
Bit of an odd start. Either run out 10b to the first bolt or a contrived reach in from the left side of the slab to make the clip. Big traverse from the 2nd to 3rd bolt could be trouble for the follower if you slip just after the 2nd bolt.
Arete is good with a few hidden holds around the right side. Mostly crimps, small knobs and friction. The arete is well bolted.
Not really a beautiful route! Sep 4, 2016

[Hide Comment] I only found 8 bolts as well by the time I arrived at a chain anchor. Was curious if it keeps going up the slab to the left? Start was pretty funky with high bolts but the upper half was stellar! Must do. Seemed much softer than Donner Summit 10.b, especially when compared to climbs on peanut gallery or Firecracker. Don't let the grade scare you off. May 22, 2017

[Hide Comment] awesome climb with great airy exposure on the arete. Smearing low and edging knobs up high. Getting to the first bolt was awkwardly runout, since one usually belays from down low, climbs 4th class up to the start of the climb, so the 10 foot runout to the 1st bolt would end badly with a fall. We used an extended #3 in the crack to feel more secure., and removed it after making the first clip. Extending draws 1, 2, and/or 3 will help with rope drag. Sep 22, 2018

[Hide Comment] This climb is accessible by leading/scrambling up the gulley (easy 5th class) immediately to the right of Primer, or by climbing Primer and making an easy, but exposed 2-3 move traverse off the backside of Primer boulder. There is a webbing anchor with rap rings at the top of the gulley, but it's really better positioned for rapping the gulley or bringing a second up the gulley. As such, we built a gear anchor a few feet below the obvious dihedral start of Space Invaders. The climb is generally well protected, but I am rating PG13 because there is a long runout on a low angle, but mostly featureless ramp between the 2nd and 3rd bolts that could result in a pretty sizable fall for the leader or be a pain for a falling second. There are 8 bolts + anchors. Crux for me IIRC was between 6th and 7th bolts -- very balancy moves on thin hands and feet. Also, the second bolt seems like a tough clip if you don't have enough ape to reach down to it from a good hold at the top of the starting dihedral. Bring a 70m rope if you want to bring up your second and rap all the way back down to the ground. A 60m will get you back down to the start of Space Invaders, but not all the way to the ground. Aug 5, 2019

[Hide Comment] This climb has really fantastic movement!! Well protected, dont let it fall into obscurity! Jun 27, 2020