Avg: 2 from 7 votes
Routes in George
|Another for the Road S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Bloody Mary T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Crushed Velvet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Curious George S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|George T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|George Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|George of the Jungle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Hello McFly S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Last Call T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Lounge Lizards P1 S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Lounge Lizards P2/3 S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Lounge Lizards Variation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Martha (A.K.A. "Turtles Crack") T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
Trad, 50 ft
|Page Views:||1,060 total, 9/month|
|Shared By:||Perin Blanchard on Jul 3, 2008|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionThe formations eponymous route is an exposed-feeling, exciting bit of climbing with good protection where needed.
From the lower, midpoint, bolted anchor on the east side climb out onto some large positive edges with no real opportunity for protection until ten feet or so from the belay (so dont fall). At this point follow the thin, corner crack up the overhanging bulge. The moves can be strenuous, but good nut placements and microcam placements abound which will ease the stress level (a #1 C3 fits quite well in one location).
Clip the bomber bolt and grunt over the top of the overhanging section. The rest of the climb is considerably easier on large, positive edges, which is a good thing because there is very little opportunity for protection (a #2 DMM Peenut is helpful).
Continue straight up, or bear left a little following a shallow, flaring almost-crack that has one opportunity where a #2 C4 sort-of fits.
Over the top onto interesting, smooth, and rounded quartzite. A 70m rope will get to the ground in a single rappel on the west side; a 60m rope will require two raps.