Type: Trad, 50 ft Fixed Hardware (1)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,133 total · 9/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Jul 3, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

The formation’s eponymous route is an exposed-feeling, exciting bit of climbing with good protection where needed.

From the lower, midpoint, bolted anchor on the east side climb out onto some large positive edges with no real opportunity for protection until ten feet or so from the belay (so don’t fall). At this point follow the thin, corner crack up the overhanging bulge. The moves can be strenuous, but good nut placements and microcam placements abound which will ease the stress level (a #1 C3 fits quite well in one location).

Clip the bomber bolt and grunt over the top of the overhanging section. The rest of the climb is considerably easier on large, positive edges, which is a good thing because there is very little opportunity for protection (a #2 DMM Peenut is helpful).

Continue straight up, or bear left a little following a shallow, flaring almost-crack that has one opportunity where a #2 C4 sort-of fits.

Over the top onto interesting, smooth, and rounded quartzite. A 70m rope will get to the ground in a single rappel on the west side; a 60m rope will require two raps.

Location

Climbs on the the north-facing bit of the George prow and continues on the east face. Start at the midpoint, bolted anchor on the east side, reachable via George Direct, pitch one of Lounge Lizards, or by scrambling farther to the east.

Protection

Micro to medium nuts, micro cams, an optional hand-sized cam, one bolt, and bolted anchors top and bottom.

Photos

Alex Temus
Utah
 
Alex Temus   Utah
 
I never realized that there were so many routes on the east side of George, but this is an awesome climb! The roof is pretty cool with some nice exposure - be prepared for an audience to stop and watch you pull it. Aug 10, 2017
Brock Jones
Provo, UT
5.10a
Brock Jones   Provo, UT
5.10a
One of the better trad routes in RC (granted there aren't all that many). 5.9 is probably a sandbag though when compared to other trad routes here. Crux for me was the mental factor of pulling pumpy moves above small gear. Singles from purple to orange metolius and a set of nuts protects this one nicely. Well I guess that rack won't protect the run-out top half after the roof, but that's easy climbing and another story. May 14, 2018