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Routes in George

Another for the Road S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bloody Mary T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crushed Velvet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Curious George S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
George T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
George Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
George of the Jungle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hello McFly S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Last Call T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lounge Lizards P1 S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lounge Lizards P2/3 S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lounge Lizards Variation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Martha (A.K.A. "Turtles Crack") T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 50 ft Fixed Hardware (1)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,060 total, 9/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Jul 3, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

The formation’s eponymous route is an exposed-feeling, exciting bit of climbing with good protection where needed.

From the lower, midpoint, bolted anchor on the east side climb out onto some large positive edges with no real opportunity for protection until ten feet or so from the belay (so don’t fall). At this point follow the thin, corner crack up the overhanging bulge. The moves can be strenuous, but good nut placements and microcam placements abound which will ease the stress level (a #1 C3 fits quite well in one location).

Clip the bomber bolt and grunt over the top of the overhanging section. The rest of the climb is considerably easier on large, positive edges, which is a good thing because there is very little opportunity for protection (a #2 DMM Peenut is helpful).

Continue straight up, or bear left a little following a shallow, flaring almost-crack that has one opportunity where a #2 C4 sort-of fits.

Over the top onto interesting, smooth, and rounded quartzite. A 70m rope will get to the ground in a single rappel on the west side; a 60m rope will require two raps.

Location

Climbs on the the north-facing bit of the George prow and continues on the east face. Start at the midpoint, bolted anchor on the east side, reachable via George Direct, pitch one of Lounge Lizards, or by scrambling farther to the east.

Protection

Micro to medium nuts, micro cams, an optional hand-sized cam, one bolt, and bolted anchors top and bottom.

Photos

Alex Temus
Small Town, USA
 
Alex Temus   Small Town, USA
 
I never realized that there were so many routes on the east side of George, but this is an awesome climb! The roof is pretty cool with some nice exposure - be prepared for an audience to stop and watch you pull it. Aug 10, 2017