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Welcome To My Nightmare

5.11+, Trad,  Avg: 3.1 from 30 votes
FA: Max Jones and John Hoffman, 1979
California > Lake Tahoe > I-80 Corridor > Donner Summit > Snowshed Wall > E Face > 3. E Face Main

Description

A very beautiful thin left leaning finger crack which then joins Nova Express for a few feet before traversing back right along the ledge to a bolt and follow the thin seam to another bolt. Now you can either go straight up and slightly left through the broken seams (5.11+/12-, more commonly done nowadays) or traverse right (original finish) and follow an easier top-out (5.11).

Location

This route is just to the right of Nova Express. It is the thin crack that looks impossible to protect but you can find solid pro.

Protection

This is a trad route so you need small pieces to 1 inch and a number 3 cam with a few slings and quickdraws for the two bolts at the top and the anchors.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] This route was lead all trad, no bolts, by the Fa team. Hence the name. Jun 27, 2009