Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches
FA: Mark Dalen, Mark Leonard 1980
Page Views: 3,402 total · 19/month
Shared By: Chuck McQuade on Jul 1, 2008 · Updates
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Many consider the (5.9) variation of P3 to be one of the Sandia's best at its grade.

Pitch 1 (5.9) Climb straight up the major weakness. Ignore at least the second of two bolts on the left, unless 5.10 face is your stronger suite compared to the style of climbing that lies ahead: continue up through a short chimney / off width section (5.9, visible from belay).  10 or 20 feet higher,  left and up a ramp to belay somewhere below a small roof.  About 160 ft.
Pitch 2 (5.8) Surmount a small roof (5.8) working your way to a straight-in corner (5.11 R), most parties step left gaining a serious of small cracks to a ledge and a small fir tree. (5.10 R). Most climbers avoid both above variations and traverse further left beyond the small cracks. This variation climbs a small arete like feature eventually ending on a large ledge above a fir tree (5.8).
Pitch 3 (5.9) Step right from the belay into a right facing corner system. The lower angled corner goes at (5.9). The further, more vertical corner goes at (5.10a). Both corner systems meet at a bulge. After the bulge (5.9) head up to a second roof bypassing it on its left side. Head up through easier terrain to the top of the formation belaying from a well camo'd bolt.


Approx. 100 yards beyond the Busk Shark Spire. The route starts between the second and third of 3 big fir trees in a narrowing gully on a south facing wall. Look for the first of two bolts protecting delicate face climbing on P1.


Standard Sandia's rack, doubles especially useful 0.3-#1 camelot. P2 belay requires some larger pieces: #2-3 camelot.