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Routes in Bush Shark Area

Banana Split T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big - T T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Blood In The Water S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bush Shark Spire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cabron T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Curfew T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Feeding Frenzy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Garden Party T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ghost Rider T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Great White T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hammerhead T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mudshark Arpeggio, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Pantomime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Westron Wynde T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Mark Dalen, Mark Leonard 1980
Page Views: 2,215 total, 19/month
Shared By: Chuck McQuade on Jul 1, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Description

Many consider the (5.9) variation of P3 to be one of the Sandia's best at its grade.

P1) Start up a thin-shallow crack passing two bolts (5.9). After the second bolt the terrain mellows allowing frequent pro. Belay just below a small roof.
P2) Surmount a small roof (5.8) working your way to a straight-in corner (5.11 R), most parties step left gaining a serious of small cracks to a ledge and a small fir tree. (5.10 R). Most climbers avoid both above variations and traverse further left beyond the small cracks. This variation climbs a small arete like feature eventually ending on a large ledge above a fir tree (5.8).
P3) Step right from the belay into a right facing corner system. The lower angled corner goes at (5.9). The further, more vertical corner goes at (5.10a). Both corner systems meet at a bulge. After the bulge head up to a second roof bypassing it on its left side. Head up through easier terrain to the top of the formation belaying from a well camo'd bolt.

Location

Approx. 100 yards beyond the Busk Shark Spire. The route starts between the second and third of 3 big fir trees in a narrowing gully on a south facing wall. Look for the first of two bolts protecting delicate face climbing on P1.

Protection

Standard Sandia's rack, doubles especially useful 0.3-#1 camelot. P2 belay requires some larger pieces: #2-3 camelot.
Rika J.
Albuquerque, NM
 
Rika J.   Albuquerque, NM
 
The first pitch actually climbs the wide-looking crack to the right of the line in the beta photo. It isn't as wide as it looks, taking thin hands gear or even smaller, but climbs like an offwidth, so be ready for that. The second pitch is a bit weird, but ends at the obvious small tree on a ledge up and left of the P1 belay. Of the two very obvious dihedrals directly above the tree, the one on the left is the 5.9 variation. Sep 24, 2017
Bob Graham  
 
Did this yesterday, really fun route! The first pitch has some classic wide climbing, the 2nd has a cool roof section leading you up to the tree belay. The 3rd pitch is awesome! Jun 9, 2012
John Kear
Albuquerque, NM
  5.9
John Kear   Albuquerque, NM
  5.9
The bolts on the first pitch are not on Westeron Wynde. It is a variation pitch that we thought was a first ascent in 2002 or so. As it turns out the line had already been climbed by Kevin Jaramillo a few years earlier without any bolts. He and I have talked about the existence of these bolts and possibly removing them since they are not circa the FA. One way or the other the bolts remain for now. It is a nice pitch one way or the other and probably harder than 5.9 as Chuck and Tamara suggest, my variation actually starts directly and climbs a steep awkward and thin lieback to gain the first bolt at about 10+. Kevin's route name for this line that actually goes on to the top of the wall separately than Westeron Wynde is Cabron 5.10 A2 4 pitches. I will try to post Kevin's routes on this wall and they will for sure be in the next addition of the Sandia Rock guidebook. There are several routes and variations on this wall in the vicinity of Westeron Wynde, all are worth doing. The original Westron Wynde line actually climbs the wide corner to the right, which is a bit scruffy and often wet then traverses left after clearing the wet bomb bay section about 80ft up. Jul 11, 2008