PRINT: Rock Climb Luscious, Los Angeles Basin

Luscious

5.11b, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 3.1 from 195 votes
FA: John Long, Joe Kristy
California > Los Angeles Basin > Santa Monica Mo… > Malibu Creek SP > Mt Gorgeous

Access Issue: New route or crag development is NOT permitted within Malibu Creek SP at this time. Do not improve trails or belay areas using materials brought from outside the park. Details

Description

The route starts out vertical on good pockets and gets slightly overhanging by the last bolt (.10-ish). The crux comes between the last bolt and the anchor on mostly vertical ground (.11?).

Location

On the left side of Mount Gorgeous. Scramble up some 5.0 for about 15 feet to the first bolt, traverse left a bit, and follow up to the anchor.

Protection

5 Bolts to Mussy hooks

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Cool climb

as of aug 2021, this route is all jug-a-luscious and prob rated 10d. still steep, just larger holds due to exfoliation.

Some guy pushing the limits of innovation in sport climbing by using his Metolius P.A.S. to break the climb up into several smaller, safer, pitches.

Favorite move on Luscious

Natalie Carr at the crux on Luscious

Adam Gill

top down

Appreciate the Angle

Debbie testing her endurance

Leading Luscious

Eric Linus leading the crux.

Nice and Steep!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Alexander
Los Angeles

This route felt a lot easier than 11C/D than the book claims it is. The holds are huge and plentiful, and it's fairly short. It gets interesting at the top, more like strong 11A? Dec 28, 2009

Michael Bartosek
Los Angeles

5.11c

I think the route could go 5.11c or 5.11a depending on how you finish from the last bolt to the anchors. If you stay true to the bolt line and resist the urge to go out the huge heuco on the right side, then I think 11c is the grade, that huge hold, which feels a tad off route is probably 11a. Aug 18, 2010

John Long
Venice

Bolts were already in place when Joe Kristy and I did the FA in 2000. Much choss and loose blocks for the first few ascents. By 2006 it had cleaned up nicely. Probably 5.11c if you keep a direct line. Aug 29, 2010

Colin Brochard
San Diego, CA

5.11c

Super fun, kinda a proj for me last year and my only 11c redpoint to date. While it is a jug haul it is very pumpy with big moves and a definite redpoint crux through deep sharp pockets at the very end. Took the fall from the chains more than once, very clean. Nov 17, 2010

TJ Esposito
San Diego, CA

Reasonable amount of grit in the pockets if there hasn't been recent traffic. Falls above the second bolt or so are pretty much clean. Don't forget to clip to the belay side of the rope when cleaning! Nov 28, 2011

MisterE Wolfe
Grass Valley, CA

Anchors replaced November 3 2013. Thanks to the ASCA and Fixe Hardware. Nov 15, 2013

Devin Trafford

Has anyone over tried dynoing from the bottom set of huecos (3rd bolt) to the top hueco?

It's almost a 7-8 foot gap, but it would avoid the crux of going right on crimpers. May 13, 2014

Cort Barrett

Sent this climb yesterday.. kinda spooky. Someone cleared the gates off of the anchor so only the rings remained. Had to use indirect to personal anchor to the rings then run the rope through the rings to set up a rappel from the top. Gear was gathered from the rappel. Will go back soon and leave gates at the top. Jan 5, 2018

Todd Fertig
Redondo Beach, CA

5.11b

Completely re-bolted (other than anchors) on 7/27/2019. Jul 28, 2019

Lê Stephen
Long Beach, CA

it is all jugs now. the crimp is no longer there due to exfoliation. also, the new bolt line changed the climb. 10d. this can't be 4 grades harder than kathmandu or gorgeous. Jul 27, 2021

Todd Fertig
Redondo Beach, CA

5.11b

New bolt line changed the climb? There was a new bolt added at the bottom where there wasnt one before (on the 5.8ish section) but every other new bolt is almost exactly where the previous bolt was. Jul 27, 2021