Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Lean To Boulder

Pick Pocket S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Swamp Thing S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,744 total, 15/month
Shared By: Ryan Kelly on Jul 1, 2008
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


31 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
New Access Difficulties Details

Description

An overhanging pocket route, much like the rest of Malibu. Mostly good pockets with a small crux sequence. The bolts are out left a bit, to keep you from hitting the large boulder below you.

Location

Straight up the middle of the face.

Protection

Four bolts. The anchor is two open shuts, but the bolt is sticking out a bit to far to thread one of the shuts.
Christian B
West Hills, California
  5.11a/b
Christian B   West Hills, California
  5.11a/b
Don't fall after 1st clip going to second. Seen too many sketchy falls from partners who aren't strong enough to be on this climb. Everything after 2nd clip is safe and this climb is the business. Anchors are looking pretty bad... Nov 3, 2015
Disaster Franklin
Los Angeles, CA
 
Disaster Franklin   Los Angeles, CA
 
Finally managed to make it back out there today with my yosemite crowbar. Got permission from on high to bend open the left shut wide enough to throw the rope over it. Loose, spinning hangers and shuts are safe, dum dum. I think you are thinking of spinning BOLTS or NUTS, which are not safe.

Willow branch for stick clipping has been upgraded with new bark-free finish and polished insertion cone for more secure quickdraw/wood interface. Please donate to my patreon page to help me upgrade more pieces of wood into finely-crafted stick clips.

A malibu creek 11a/b I guess? Oct 10, 2015
Michael Bartosek
Los Angeles
Michael Bartosek   Los Angeles
I haven't climbed the route for a long time and I took a spin this past weekend, it felt a bit easier, and it would be a bummer if someone chipped a hold. I didn't notice.... Feb 11, 2014
Well looks like some "nice" person has chipped/enlarged two of the holds in the crux section to make it easier. Can't believe anyone would do this on a climb at this level. Probably 10c now if that. Sep 4, 2013
Was out there today and both top anchors are pulling out.
I would be very aware of this before climbing again.

If anyone knows who the FA is I would be happy to rebolt this if you have contact info? (was it Oliphant?) Jul 28, 2012
youtube.com/watch?v=tP11TxR…
Dont watch if you dont want beta!
Fun enjoyable route in a great setting Apr 2, 2012