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Routes in Home on the Range Rock (temporary name)

Coyote Pretty S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hey Jerk, Nice Car T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Home on the Range T 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Twistor TR V10 7C+
Unknown 4 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 1 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unknown 2 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown 3 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Scarpelli?
Page Views: 745 total, 7/month
Shared By: Jason Funk on Jun 30, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

The first section (the right-facing dihedral) is probably hard 5.8 but is surprisingly awkward in positioning despite the low angle. The second section I would recommend to split into a another pitch by belaying in the alcove - it requires a traverse left over to the crack that start with hands and opens way up to larger than fists, this section is the crux and seems to be somewhere around 5.9. From here, there is a big ledge where you can pass through to the otherside of the formation to walk off or keep going up another pitch (directly to the right) to the very top of Coyote Rocks via another ramping, right-facing dihedral, short squeeze chimney and a few face moves. This section is more casual and goes in the 5.6 range. It has a nice 360 degree views of surrounding area, Eagle Rocks, etc.... There is a large chockstone that should still be slung with webbing and 2 oval biners to rap off the back side of the formation. A 60 meter is recommended, but I believe a 50m will make it.

Location

The right-leaning seam, the project is the big landmark. Once you find that, you're golden. It's about halfway in between Unknown 2 and Unknown 3, or very near The Rose.

Protection

Bring doubles to big hands, then singles up to #6 C4.

Photos

Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
An anchor was stolen from the top of the seam just left of this route. If anyone has more info, don't hesitate to speak up. Nov 20, 2008
Jason Funk
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Jason Funk   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Sorry about the description, there is some sort of glitch with this page that won't allow me to edit anything. Basically repeating a lot of what Brain said in his description about the route. The first section (the right facing dihedral) is probably hard 5.8 but is suprisingly awkward in positioning despite the low angle. The second section I would recommend to split into a another pitch by belaying in the alcove- it requires a traverse left over to the crack that start with hands and opens way up to larger than fists, this section is the crux and seems to be somewhere around 5.9. From here there is a big ledge where you can pass thru to the otherside of the formation to walk off or keep going up another pitch (directly to the right) to the very top of Coyote Rocks via another ramping right facing dihedral, short squeeze chimney and a few face moves. This section is more casual and goes in the 5.6 range. Nice 360 deg views of surrounding area, Eagle Rocks, ect... There is a large chock stone that should still be slung with webbing and 2 oval biners to rap off the back side of the formation. 60 meter recommended but I believe a 50 will make it. Jul 2, 2008
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
I'd been told that he hadn't quite gotten yet. We'll leave it to him to post it up though. Jul 1, 2008
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
I think Jason's still working on that.

Basically, follow the right-leaning dihedral to a big, ugly horizontal, then traverse left on the horizontal until you can move up via a wide crack (about big green camalot size) that goes straight up from the horizontal that marks the top of that old Scarpelli/Suzuki project, then walk off or continue up via a 3rd pitch that I didn't really see. Bring doubles to big hands, then singles up to #6 C4.

The right-leaning seam, the project is the big landmark. Once you find that, you're golden. It's about halfway in between Unknown 2 and Unknown 3, or very near The Rose. Jul 1, 2008