Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches
FA: Scarpelli?
Page Views: 1,455 total · 7/month
Shared By: Jason Funk on Jun 30, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Description Suggest change

The first section (the right-facing dihedral) is probably hard 5.8 but is surprisingly awkward in positioning despite the low angle. The second section I would recommend to split into a another pitch by belaying in the alcove - it requires a traverse left over to the crack that start with hands and opens way up to larger than fists, this section is the crux and seems to be somewhere around 5.9. From here, there is a big ledge where you can pass through to the otherside of the formation to walk off or keep going up another pitch (directly to the right) to the very top of Coyote Rocks via another ramping, right-facing dihedral, short squeeze chimney and a few face moves. This section is more casual and goes in the 5.6 range. It has a nice 360 degree views of surrounding area, Eagle Rocks, etc.... There is a large chockstone that should still be slung with webbing and 2 oval biners to rap off the back side of the formation. A 60 meter is recommended, but I believe a 50m will make it.

Location Suggest change

The right-leaning seam, the project is the big landmark. Once you find that, you're golden. It's about halfway in between Unknown 2 and Unknown 3, or very near The Rose.

Protection Suggest change

Bring doubles to big hands, then singles up to #6 C4.