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Routes in Gunsmoke Wall

After the Gold Rush TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Bacon Taco S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Powder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cali Gold TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Dirty Captain Freeman T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Drug of Choice S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fever Pitch S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Filet of Sole T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Finger Crimping Good S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gunsmoke T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Long Branch S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Narcotic Prayer TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Powderhorn S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rawhide S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smokin' the Rock S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smoking Gun S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Testosterone Crack S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Triple Decker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Chuck Scott, 1995
Page Views: 1,345 total, 12/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jun 30, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This route climbs the obvious right-facing corner left of Bacon Taco via stemming, liebacking and even some face moves and goes at a much easier grade than inital appearances might suggest.

The route was orginally done without any bolts and by climbing the crack without stemming (5.11 but contrived). Years later the line was bolted by climbers thinking they were doing the FA and with the discovery that a little stemming lowers the grade has become a semi-popular route in the area.

Location

Right side of the West Face and a short ways left of Bacon Taco.

Protection

4 bolts, chains

Photos

NJS
NJS  
The bolts were placed so you could climb the face without use of the crack. Hence the bolt line and anchors are not near the crack. The route is called Joes Dilemma and the consensus grade according to the person that bolted the line is 13a/12d. Jul 3, 2014
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
 
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
 
I thought climbing the crack without stemming was excellent full value sustained .11 movement with a couple .11+ moves between the second and third bolt. Great hand jam for clipping the third bolt. This is one of those climbs that you keep thinking about right before going to sleep. Some really excellent finger locks, side pulls, gastone, and crimping, all extremely sustained and all flow well once you can decipher the moves. May 28, 2013
MAR
  5.10c
MAR  
  5.10c
I found this harder than 5.10a even with stemming. Clipping the 3rd bolt from the stem was difficult, and moving out onto the face before the clip, tenuous (admittedly I'm 5.4 and my follower had less trouble with the reachy clip). The moves between bolt 3 and 4 were the crux for me. Its good to note that the climb goes right after the 4th bolt, as I went straight up and had to down climb some when I realized the anchors were way to the right. All said, however, a cool route. Aug 27, 2012