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Routes in Animation Wall

PVUSS T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Suspended Animation T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Lance Bateman, 1993
Page Views: 134 total · 1/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Jun 30, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Climb up past two bolts (a bit runout) to gain the ramp in the middle of the wall. Clip a bolt on the steep wall above the ramp and make a jump move (crux) to reach the face above the ramp. Climb past two more bolts and finish on Suspended Animation.

Rappel the route.

Location

This route starts in the middle of the face to the right of the start of Suspended Animation.

Protection

Quickdraws and Long Slings.

Photos

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Anyone know if the run out to the 1st bolt and before the second bolt can be supplemented by small cams or other pro? It looks like a stellar line and I am hoping to try it in the spring but was wondering how much of a hardman ill have to be. Ha. Jan 30, 2017
Ben Folsom  
 
In the Wasatch climbing guide by the Ruckmans it says that Lance Bateman and Ben Folsom did the first ascent. Lance deserves all the credit as he bolted it and led it free. I followed on the first ascent, and can't remember if I was able to do it free cleanly at that time or not. I went up there last year and was unable to do the crux move.
Cool temperatures will help on this climb for sure. The crux sequence above the ramp is really good! Climbing on the pink and orange rock is really nice. Jun 30, 2008