[Hide Comment] AF classic. Definitely feels on the 12a side. All of the moves are there. The most difficult part is how many sucker, chalked up pockets there are. This made it seem hard to stay on route. Hard onsight but whoa what a satisfying route. Aug 4, 2008

[Hide Comment] 12a so sick Sep 30, 2008

[Hide Comment] A very tough onsight indeed. It's really easy to miss a lot of the better holds for some not so great holds due to the amount of chalk marks on the wall. Each roof had it's own crux, but the hardest part seemed to be pulling over the second roof. Once you're over that, then you have a great rest that is hands free. This route is more overhung then it looks, and is nothing but big move after big move. A few sketchy clips with the chance of hitting the tree if you take a big fall. Perhaps this was 11.d back in the day, but a few jugs have been broken off, some fairly recently. Bring your balls on this one. AF classic!!! May 31, 2009

[Hide Comment] "but a few jugs have been broken off"

This is true, shortly after this route was put up, a major flake broke off...the one you clip the first bolt from. Later, another smaller, but key hold broke off down low, so yes! the start is much harder. Nov 17, 2009

[Hide Comment] Awesome, Awesome route. Maybe a 12 move at the top and the very beginning, but I think the rating of 12 is deserved because of the length and amount of cruxy moves. Again great climb! Jul 29, 2011

[Hide Comment] There are two crucial holds on this climb that look like they are going to break off soon and fall down right into the walk way (read: where a lot of people are). The first is the block with cracks in it to the left of the bolt just after the first bulge. This entire block is very chalked up and very loose. You can wiggle the block back and forth... and by the extent of the chalk on it... I'd say just about everyone chooses to use it. The second loose hold is up high just before pulling the last bulge before the chains. This is again a crucial pocket (judging by the amount of chalk on it) that is part of a loose block with a crack down the side of it. Just like the lower one, you can see the crack widen (and the block move out) when the pocket is weighted.
If these holds were to break off (especially the top hold) the route would most likely get a bunch harder. From a safety point of view... both of these blocks are big enough and high enough of the ground that they would undoubtedly kill somebody/belayer at the base if it struck them. These blocks are directly above the main path and sitting area on that side of hard rock.
The nature of these blocks with the obvious cracks in them make it so it would be very easy to reinforce them with glue... These holds can be easily reinforced by filling the back of the cracks with glue.... Reinforcing the blocks in this way will keep the glue hidden and unseen. The other option is to use a bar and knock the loose stuff off when no one is around. THis will however significantly increase the grade of the climb and will alter the classic fluid motion of this climb.

I am more than willing to do the gluing but was wondering if I should get the permission of the first acensionist or whoever else. Jul 23, 2012

[Hide Comment] James, gluing that hold would be a great service...thanks! Jul 24, 2012

[Hide Comment] Solid 12a, just milk the 2 good rests and you will send, before the last roof move way right to a perfect ledge with a nice jug that looks like an ear. Jul 26, 2012

[Hide Comment] I just climbed this route yesterday and pulled that really nice hold from the top. It was an onsight attempt and luckily no one was hurt but that key hold is now gone. That loose block in the middle is still somehow clinging on but moves like crazy and seems pretty key to the route. I think everyone uses it and that it's gonna fall soon. It should be pulled from the wall. Aug 6, 2012

[Hide Comment] utfreeclimber, glad to hear that no one got hurt. I just knew that these holds were going to come down soon. The real unfortunate thing is that I was actually going to go glue those two holds this coming saturday. Looks like I am a little late. Were you able to figure out a new sequence through that final roof? I wonder if it will still go at 12a? Unfortunately I did not get the onsight either, now I am hoping that it is within my reach to get the redpoint with the broken hold and all. Aug 16, 2012

[Hide Comment] Went back and got this climb... The bottom loose block is still there... but yes indeed, the block with the pocket in it just below the third roof is now on the ground somewhere (really glad its not in somebody's head). It doesn't change the grade but the moves are now harder up there. That pocket was a nice rest before pulling that final roof. I had to figure out some new beta that was definitely harder. Anyway, this is an amazing climb. There are some really big moves in between pockets, awesome fluid movement, endurance climbing with multiple cruxes. This seemed harder for me than several of the other 12a's in the canyon but not hard enough to be 12b. I think the opening 10 to 15 feet is a v4 boulder problem and the rest is sustained 11 climbing to the chains with a v3 redpoint crux higher up. As has been said, there is an awesome rest just after the second bulge. Sep 13, 2012

[Hide Comment] Just got on this for the first time on 5/11/13: what a solidly fun route. Although i didn't notice any loose blocks (perhaps i was just trying to keep focused and not to 'fright' myself off the route - scary on your very first go)... the block James Yate pulled off, i never knew of, and thought it was really solid at 12a.... May 13, 2013

[Hide Comment] Good route. Dogged it a bit today to figure out the moves (first go, may not have time to try it again on this trip).

This is a rope eater though. I fell multiple times on the 2nd crux (worsening pockets to a sharp 2 finger and around a groove). Don't think i got it bang on for that but my rope has 2 meters less due to drag, core was showing. Was using long draws. Any advice? Jun 19, 2015

[Hide Comment] Really needs a new bolt at the 2nd crux, if anyone has the motivation to do that. We would all appreciate it Im sure. Right now, it's a rusty half inch SMC. Be safe out there. Oct 31, 2015

[Hide Comment] This thing is climbing hard right now. Maybe it was a high gravity day.

That rusty spinning SMC hanger is still there. With permission whoever replaces it might be doing a service to move it down a foot or so. I know why it's there, don't want to give it away.. but heads up and pretty crap feet getting to the stance. Apr 30, 2017

[Hide Comment] There's a large rock toward the left in the final roof that was scarily loose. I started to use it as an undercling and it felt like it would easily rip out if I fully loaded it. The rock is about the size of a backpack and could kill someone if it fell. May 16, 2017

[Hide Comment] Area classic. Tough at 12a. Powerful one move boulder problem to the horn at the beginning, then pumpy 12a to the first rest, which is nearly no-hands. Then maybe 11c through the second roof if you hit the best holds, to a no-hands rest. I thought the top section was the easiest crux, maybe 11b with the right beta. On one of my attempts I got off route (too far right) and whipped onto that rusty spinner, added some excitement! Sep 2, 2017

[Hide Comment] Absolute classic!
12a boulder start up and over the 1st roof. Pretty good rest and 11c above second roof to a hands free rest. Keep it together after bomber rest over 3rd roof (11c) and send! Sep 3, 2018

[Hide Comment] This route is pretty stout! Great climbing HOWEVER about the 4th or 5th bolt there's a Rusty, partially pulled out, spinner, small smc hanger that 'protects' a small little roof pull midroute. It is VERY dangerous and I almost bailed because I did not want to trust that thing.

If you know how to bolt, replacing this bolt would allow more people to try this route again.
Cheers. Sep 22, 2019

[Hide Comment] There is a new permadraw in place of the rusty SMC bolt people have mentioned (Dec 2020). Dec 7, 2020

[Hide Comment] Definitely more overhung than it looks. Many stout sequences all stacked on top of each other, and some technical moves as well. Not to mention some greasy feet. I vote sandbag if 12a. Jun 26, 2021

[Hide Comment] Replaced the aluminum carabiners on the anchors with steel ones today. A route this classic deserves bomber hardware! Jul 14, 2022

[Hide Comment] Good work Rennie Putnam! Everyone needs to do their part to replace shitty gear! Keep it up. Jul 14, 2022

[Hide Comment] Based on how hard the start is, I think this one should be 12b. Oct 8, 2023

[Hide Comment] All lead and anchor bolts have been replaced by the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA) with FIXE 3/8 glue-in bolts. All holes were hand drilled deeper due to this area being within the Wilderness Boundary. Removing and replacing bolts with no power tools is extremely time and energy intensive. Please consider donating to the SLCA for future anchor replacement projects.

To Donate: secure.squarespace.com/chec…

Project Recap: saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…

Submit an Anchor Observation: saltlakeclimbers.org/fixed-… Dec 22, 2023

[Hide Comment] In case it's helpful to anyone, you can get up and down this route without unclipping with a 53 m rope. It was somewhat close though. Just a few arm's lengths left. Dec 22, 2024

[Hide Comment] It would just be a good route, but last two bolts worth of climbing make this a great route Oct 19, 2025