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Heat Stroke

5.10b, Trad,  Avg: 3 from 3 votes
FA: Eric Frede, Charles Arnett, 6/86
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (w) The Marsupials > Koala Rock
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Description

This is the original route on the south face of Koala Rock. It's a testpiece to be avoided when it's hot. Look for a single bolt at the start that was placed after the first ascent.

Location

Middle of the south facing wall uphill from Suck My Kiss.

Protection

Gear to 1.5 inches. Two bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

FA ascent of Heatstroke, June 1986. Note vintage Fire footware and frying skin.
[Hide Photo] FA ascent of Heatstroke, June 1986. Note vintage Fire footware and frying skin.
Final face moves during the FA of Heatstroke, 1986.
[Hide Photo] Final face moves during the FA of Heatstroke, 1986.
FA ascent of Heatstroke, 1986.
[Hide Photo] FA ascent of Heatstroke, 1986.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] FA by Eric Freden, Charles Arnett, and Doug Arnett on a hot day in June 1986. FA was ground up and had a fixed pin to protect the start. Jun 1, 2013
Quincy aka Tiffany Samson
Seattle, WA
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Really fun! Climbed this on TR using same anchor as 5.11a Cool Air. I was really afraid of falling and swinging since the anchor is far left, but it was so worth it. Not your traditional crack route. Lots of face holds and flakes for hands. There are a couple areas where large chunks of rock are loose and I’m pretty sure they could pull out with enough force; that was scary too. The traverse up top is nice. Use fancy footwork. Bolts at the bottom, gear placement above. Oct 29, 2018