ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK. THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
Get high above the Crooked River with this fun three pitch route. The original first pitch (5.6) is a low quality grunt but pitch two (5.7) to the small belay cove and the last pitch (5.7) make this climb worth doing.
Location
The start is at the base of the heart shaped rock that sits to the left of Asterisk Pass. Either rap off the west side on hard to find rap anchors or 'walk' off by scrambling down a west side gully.
Protection
Gear to 3 inches. Be sure to know how to build anchors as the belay cove requires some skill to create a safe anchor.
[Hide Photo] Matt on "Sky Chimney" at Smith Rock, OR.
[Hide Photo] Stuart on "Sky Chimney" at Smith Rock, OR.
[Hide Photo] Belaying in the little cave can be lame because the ground is dirty and sloping downwards so much. If you trust your anchor in there its probably more fun to go with a hybrid hanging/standing belay…
[Hide Comment] p1 has bolts, if you stay on the ramp atop of the large flake; otherwise chimney is a 25' awkward unprotectable grunt.
Pay heed to warning about the belay stance atop pitch 2, there was some tat when we did it, best to probably build anchor at the crack on the left of the belay. Lots of birds nest along this route.
Pitch 3 goes to a scary crumbly ledge, then it's a scramble to the top. This is adventure climbing, with great exposure. Two 70m ropes tied together will get you to the ground off the shuts of Sky Ridge.
May 28, 2012
[Hide Comment] To get off Sky Chimney or Ridge with one 60m, uphill from the top of Sky Ridge is a rappel station off the backside. 3 raps get you down.
Oct 20, 2012
[Hide Comment] The belay from the top of P3 is a gravel field, make sure that your follower has a helmet and glasses! We got buzzed with some large rocks from a party rapping a route above and to the right of us, be careful and stand close to the wall.
Oct 21, 2013
[Hide Comment] To avoid bombing your partner and others with gravel atop P3, (the last real pitch) clip the bolt high on the right side of the ledge (keeps your rope off the gravel and acts as a directional) and carefully walk the edge of the ledge to the left. Most, if not all, of the gravel is uphill of the edge and is frightening. Staying low will keep you on solid rock all the way to cracks (small to medium gear) on the left.
Oct 25, 2013
[Hide Comment] There is a large detached block in the belay hole, the whole thing moves when touching it. The anchor set up in the hole is not simple, not good for beginners. Probably best to just skip the belay hole and combine pitches 2 and 3 if you have enough gear.
On pitch 1 the 5.7 face (King Nothing) is a nice alternative to the chimney.
Apr 3, 2014
P1- what a slog in that chimney. Agree that it's unprotectable.
P2. Kind of okay moves into what may be the least comfortable belay I've ever set up. That gigantic block in the back of the cave is detached! I used a #3 and 4 above and got a smaller piece in below to create an anchor. Definitely took some ingenuity.
P3. Kind of somewhat enjoyable moves to a chosspile at the top. I didn't see a spot to build an anchor, so I climbed to the chimney to the left and busted out a hip belay, which ended up being bomber if not reallllly rope-draggey. Is there a bolted anchor above this?
Definitely a strange climb- there are much, much better 3 pitch 5.7's in the park to take family and friends on!
May 26, 2015
[Hide Comment] P1 is a funky chimney that's not very well protected (it has bolts, but if you stay in the chimney, they just create a lot of extra drag). P2 was fun, but the belay station at the top of P2 is turrible! Built anchors with two 1's and a .75, but you're sitting on a kneebar. There's also an old sling up there you could use as a backup.
p3 was definitely the money pitch, and probably the coolest move on the route is pulling into the crack from the tiny belay station. The last belay station is a choss, shit pile, so be careful or you could very well rain rocks on your follower. Fun route despite the questionable belay stations. Rap off Wherever I May Roam
Jun 30, 2015
[Hide Comment] There is no anchor atop P3, but a stance belay from the top of the finishing chimney is more than solid. Rope doesn't drag too much if you extend from the bolt by the scree slope. I wasn't comfortable belaying from the ledge near the bolt. Wear helmets and bring enough gear - I was grateful for a set of large hexes.
Nov 23, 2016
[Hide Comment] Agree that clipping the 1/4" bolt on P3 before entering the last chimney keeps the rope out of the pea gravel. Several options for the final belay with small gear. For the second sloping belay, wouldn't recommend relying only on gear touching the triangular block, but the crack up and left takes a #4 C4, and probably a #3. Having a couple of #4 cams is nice to protect pitch 3, especially to protect the belayer leading out. It's easy to get focused on the crack, but there are lots of hands and feet on the faces, so look around.
Apr 30, 2017
[Hide Comment] Honestly, not that bad of a belay ledge above P2, and not that difficult to build an anchor either. Yet, with that said, I'm not sure why you wouldn't link P2 and P3. It was very easy to do. You could also link P1 and P2 instead so that whoever leads those pitches gets a little fun. double 70s will rap from the anchor atop Sky Dive to the ground. Otherwise, I suggest the rap anchors next to Wherever I May Roam. Also -- Bird pee in jugs is real, and gross.
Oct 15, 2020
[Hide Comment] Thought this climb was more difficult than its neighbor White Satin. Linked second two pitches. 70m could do the whole pitch in one, but would have wicked rope drag. At the very top, clipped the 1/4" bolt, climbed left and then back right to bomber comfortable belay ledge with great gear and no choss, with straight line for the rope.
Saw a group get over their head on this one and built a seriously sketchy rappel on gear on the loose block in the awkward belay knook. I'm glad they are still alive. They were looking for a bolted anchor that didn't exist as well.
I think this climb deserves more stars, but a higher grade.
Feb 21, 2021
Avg: 2.5 from 57
votes
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
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Herndon, Virginia
Pay heed to warning about the belay stance atop pitch 2, there was some tat when we did it, best to probably build anchor at the crack on the left of the belay. Lots of birds nest along this route.
Pitch 3 goes to a scary crumbly ledge, then it's a scramble to the top. This is adventure climbing, with great exposure. Two 70m ropes tied together will get you to the ground off the shuts of Sky Ridge. May 28, 2012
Brought two up to the P2 belay "ledge", which was a bit awkward, but manageable.
Watch out for serious rock fall potential at the top of P3 at the bomber legs.
Two 70m ropes got us to the bottom. Two clueless climbers told us we could rap with one 60m--what were they thinking. Aug 4, 2012
Boston, MA
Boise, ID
Bend, OR
Las Vegas, NV
On pitch 1 the 5.7 face (King Nothing) is a nice alternative to the chimney. Apr 3, 2014
P1- what a slog in that chimney. Agree that it's unprotectable.
P2. Kind of okay moves into what may be the least comfortable belay I've ever set up. That gigantic block in the back of the cave is detached! I used a #3 and 4 above and got a smaller piece in below to create an anchor. Definitely took some ingenuity.
P3. Kind of somewhat enjoyable moves to a chosspile at the top. I didn't see a spot to build an anchor, so I climbed to the chimney to the left and busted out a hip belay, which ended up being bomber if not reallllly rope-draggey. Is there a bolted anchor above this?
Definitely a strange climb- there are much, much better 3 pitch 5.7's in the park to take family and friends on! May 26, 2015
Portland, OR
p3 was definitely the money pitch, and probably the coolest move on the route is pulling into the crack from the tiny belay station. The last belay station is a choss, shit pile, so be careful or you could very well rain rocks on your follower. Fun route despite the questionable belay stations. Rap off Wherever I May Roam Jun 30, 2015
cascades
Having a couple of #4 cams is nice to protect pitch 3, especially to protect the belayer leading out.
It's easy to get focused on the crack, but there are lots of hands and feet on the faces, so look around. Apr 30, 2017
Redmond, OR
double 70s will rap from the anchor atop Sky Dive to the ground. Otherwise, I suggest the rap anchors next to Wherever I May Roam. Also -- Bird pee in jugs is real, and gross. Oct 15, 2020
Portland, OR
Saw a group get over their head on this one and built a seriously sketchy rappel on gear on the loose block in the awkward belay knook. I'm glad they are still alive. They were looking for a bolted anchor that didn't exist as well.
I think this climb deserves more stars, but a higher grade. Feb 21, 2021
Portland, OR