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Routes in Creekside Wall

A-Frame Roof T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Downclimb Route T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Left Arete T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Lower Bolted Face S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lower Roof Route T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Old Aid T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Roof Route T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown at Creekside T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 854 total, 7/month
Shared By: Julian Smith on Jun 28, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Reopened after flood damage! Details

Description

The lower roof route takes a line through the largest roof that you can find at Creekside Wall. Just look up as you are walking uphill towards the main Creekside Wall and you can’t miss it. Your eyes will follow a left-facing dihedral, which breaks back to the right in order to turn the roof. The big flake beneath the roof is pretty bomber to hang off of. However, even better gear can be had by taking the time to work it into a pocket in the back of the roof (number 2 or 3 Camalot). Make a big move rightwards to reach a good side-pull at the lip and crank around till where you can stand on the face. Head straight up to the top (unprotected), or continue breaking to the right and upwards through some loose stuff, and pass and old fixed pin. This one is really good, and is easier than it looks from the ground. Enjoy!

Protection

A pretty skinny rack should do OK. I take a blue (#1) TCU, a #2 & #3 Camalot, and then a red (#4) TCU for the lip of the roof. Take plenty of slings to add length to the pieces beneath the roof and for a tree/pipe anchor at the top.

Photos

Julian Smith
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Julian Smith   Colorado Springs, CO
 
The Stewart Green Pikes Peak topo shows a sport route (sans hangers) that essentially takes the same line as the Lower Roof Route; Kayro In Your Gas Tank.... Jun 28, 2008