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Routes in The Galley

Galley Center V1 5
Rough Seas V6+ 7A
Smooth Sailing V2 5+
Traverse V8- 7B
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Boulder
FA: Ric Geiman?
Page Views: 691 total, 6/month
Shared By: Jerad Friedrichs on Jun 27, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Reopened after flood damage! Details

Description

This is a pretty popular problem that traverses the Galley Boulder. It can go from left to right or right to left. It is about the same rating each way depending on what your strength and weaknesses are. The only rule on this one is you can't use the lip while traversing. It has a mixture of good holds and bad underclings with nasty feet.

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Nathanael Hansen
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Nathanael Hansen   Colorado Springs, Colorado
Last time I was here, I noticed that one of the underclings on the traverse have broken off - the one to the right of the big side pocket.
Pretty critical, there are some crimps up high that could be used to link it still.... Sep 28, 2015
I found some old video and I used the lower pocket near the lip but not the pocket right at the lip. I also stayed low at the end using the sandy pinches instead of the holds at the lip and finished by climbing around the corner and up. The start is in the two pockets if you're going right. Mar 7, 2012
Patrick Manitou
Atlanta, GAAAAA
Patrick Manitou   Atlanta, GAAAAA
So the lip is off, but what about the pocket that's fairly good, and within a couple inches from the lip, mid-way through the traverse? It's used for the V1 Galley Center problem. I felt a little shaddy using it, but to my eye, it was not part of the lip.

Either way, I enjoyed this problem a lot more than I thought I would. Put it together in an afternoon (using the pocket), and it's probably my favorite thing at Ute now, minus the soot. Mar 5, 2012
Nickerson
Boulder, CO
Nickerson   Boulder, CO
A couple years ago I started right, traversed to the arete on the left, then returned to the right. That's probably about V10 and 30+ moves with no real rest (except maybe along the sloping undercling rail). Sep 12, 2011
I'm almost sure that this is a Ric Geiman FA. Nov 2, 2010