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Routes in Keyhole Cave Area

Bow Street T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coventry Street T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Oxford Street T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Piccadilly Circus T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Regent Street T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: FFA Steve Bancroft, John Allen 1976
Page Views: 363 total, 3/month
Shared By: Euan Cameron on Jun 26, 2008
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

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Description

Climb directly up the crack with good solid finger jams directly up to gain a good rest 15 below the cave. The next section up to the roof is the technical crux.

On increasingly difficult finger jams make progress until possible to grab the good lip on the cave.

From here standup, and climb the sandy cave until a difficult move at the roof allows you to dynamically get established on the head wall above the cave. The finishing moves are easier, but they feel decidedly airy, as you make your way directly to the top.

Location

Middle of the wall below 'the keyhole'.

Protection

Trad gear.

Photos

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