Type: Trad, Aid, 220 ft (67 m), 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Sam Lightner Jr, June 26, 2008
Page Views: 924 total · 5/month
Shared By: Sam Lightner, Jr. on Jun 26, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


Pitch 1 = Climb up the easiest line in the Dewey Bridge layer. There is no gear on this pitch and it is very loose. I thought it was about 5.7... though if you had bolts in front of you it might be easier. Watch out for the huge blocks up. There is a good half inch bolt next to a 3/4 inch crack to build an anchor from on the ledge.
60 feet.
Pitch 2 = Go up the obvious crack, clipping two fixed pieces at the start to reach the "A"frame. This is actually C1 plugging, but I gave it the "C2" cus if the flake shifts you are gonna get an entrada enema. Once through the crux coninue on wider pieces, mostly large hands. This would be good free climbing as the pitch is very solid (above the crux). There is the obligatory wide stuff in the middle and at the end. A good anchor exists at the saddle. 110 feet.
Pitch 3 = free climb on very rotten rock to a half inch bolt, then aid/free the remaining 20 feet to the summit on bolts.
40 feet.
Rap to the saddle and then to the ground.


Northwest facing corner of the spire.


two 60's, doubles on .5 friends to 2.5, then 3 #3, 6 #3.5, 4 #4, 3 #5, 2 #6