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Routes in School Rock

Breakfast Club, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eleventh Grade Corner T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Junior High T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Karl's Overhang T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kindergarten Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mary's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Metal Shop T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sandy Lunchables T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Senior Prom T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Short Subject S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Teacher's Pet T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
There is no God Crack Left T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
There is no God Crack Right T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown (5.10+) TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wyatt Wall Left TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: Karl Hammer
Page Views: 3,730 total, 33/month
Shared By: Nat Lim on Jun 26, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Notes Details

Description

Climb a beautiful, yet sustained 15 foot overhanging roof crack, located to the left of Short Subject.

Absolutely stellar yet challenging hand/fist jams to a fantastic pull at the lip.

Becareful, deck potential is possible if not careful on this route!

Location

School rock, look for short subject, and look about 15 feet over to see a very distinct hand fist overhanging roof crack, don't mistake the thin finger overhanging crack to the immediate left of short subject for Karl's Overhang!

Start is a distinct fist crack into roof crack.

Getting down is a scramble back down

Protection

Cams or/and passive from .4" up to 2", an optional 3.5" might be useful, doubles in .5-1" useful.

No anchors at top, build your own.

Photos

Alex Lloyd
Santa Cruz, CA
 
Alex Lloyd   Santa Cruz, CA
 
The fixed #2 is gone! This is an incredibly fun line Oct 22, 2017
Kyle Bishop
Nevada City, CA
Kyle Bishop   Nevada City, CA  
@Eli agreed!

Someone got a #2 stuck in the beginning of the crack, making it considerably more difficult to get good jams at the start of the wide part. If the #2 were gone, you could match two great hands right away.

If you've got one, bring a funkness and slam that junker out! Jun 18, 2017
Eli
Lives in a truck
  5.11+
Eli   Lives in a truck
  5.11+
I heard that Karl called this one 5.10c originally.
#1 All time sandbag. Jul 5, 2016
MisterCattell Cattell
South Lake Tahoe, Ca
  5.11a
MisterCattell Cattell   South Lake Tahoe, Ca
  5.11a
The "flaring" nature of this crack doesn't impede gear placement whatsoever. This crack eats gear. If you have trouble finding gear on this route, you've got issues. Great rests on solid hand jams and a solid rest after the first move allow you to place gear pretty much anywhere you like. Solid, amazing route! May 30, 2015
Excellent line, probably 11+. I didn't think the gear placements were too challenging. BD yellow, green, blue, and purple to get you through the crux. Natural anchors. My hands are between a green and a red, so they aren't particularly small, but I had to make a long reach through the main fist section, because I was shoulder deep and nothing was catching. Long arms are a MAJOR plus on this one, especially at the crux. Too bad I'm minus 4! Wear pants unless you have wide giant feet--my ankles/calves were super scraped. Jun 24, 2013
urs
  5.11d
urs  
  5.11d
Finally got back on this after falling at the lip a few years ago. The crack can be protected all the way to the top quite easily however protecting the roof is a little tricking, but all the protection is there. After talking to several locals on the grade all of them said it was a sandbag grade unless you are six foot and can reach the jug above the lip without any problem. The main consensus was 5.11+. 5.11a hand and fist jams through the roof until the lip were you make a desperate deadpoint to the juggy horizontal. However the grade, there are very few places were you can find such a hard and demanding horizontal fist crack and this is definitely one of the classic lines in donner. Jun 10, 2011
urs
  5.11d
urs  
  5.11d
The routes first ascent (Karl Hammer) was put up solo in the dead of winter when the roof was covered up with snow. The first ascent of the roof section wasnt climbed until much later. Aug 3, 2009
Nat Lim
 
Nat Lim  
 
Due to the flaring nature of the crack the placements are not obvious, however with some hunting, there are some bomber placements, the challenge is finding the placements while hanging upside down on some interesting jams! The route isn't quite PG but neither is it G. Jul 7, 2008
Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
Does it merit a pg-13 rating since pro is hard, or are the actual placements good? I remember looking at this a while back, but I don't remember... Jul 2, 2008
Nat Lim
 
Nat Lim  
 
This was a fantastic climb, the moves varied and challenging. Definitley a must do!

-caution-challenging gear placements. Jun 26, 2008