PRINT: Rock Climb Rodney's Chocolate Frosted Love Donut, Smith Rock

Rodney's Chocolate Frosted Love Donut

5.8, Sport,

Avg: 2 from 67 votes
FA: FA/ Rodney Spencer, Scott (aka Stick) Kelly, Don Gonthier
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (k) The Dihedrals

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:

ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

All bolts were placed on lead by Rod while a crapy belay was provided provided by Mr. Kelly. Gonthier provided verbal commentary and promised not to call the route what he did. Both Mr. Gonthier and Mr. Kelly have received their final belays and will forever be missed.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jessica nearing the top.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Wolfgang Braun
Beavercreek, Oregon

5.9

At the Ginger snap/ Cinnamon Slab belay, head straight up instead of climbing slightly left up the crack. The grade given in the guidebook is 5.9 . This route is bolted.

Descend via the Karate Wall rap, with 2 60m ropes, or 1 70m. Oct 15, 2008

S. Eppes
Bend , OR

5.7

I pulled a big chunk off at about the 4th bolt. Be careful.
Other than that, this route is super fun. I would say 5.7 is consistent with the rest of Smith Oct 25, 2008

big-rodley-rod

Rodney's Chocolate Frosted Love Donut. FA: Rod Spencer, Don Gonthier, Scott (Stick) Kelly, sometime around August '96. All bolts placed on lead by RS w/ alternating crappy belays provided by DG and SK. Loose flake was left due to heavy climbing traffic below refusing to move out of the way, even after repeated cries of "ROCK, ROCK, ROCK!!!" Aug 29, 2011

marmot marmot
Eugene, OR

5.8

The guide I have lists this one at 5.8. The first move is probably 5.9, followed by much easier climbing to the top. The knobby holds are unstable and prone to snap, but there are plenty of holds to choose from. Jul 13, 2013

Brian
North Kingstown, RI

5.8+

You don't need two ropes to get down. One 60m and two raps. May 13, 2015

Gail Blauer
Gardiner, NY

fun climb. Worth doing. Easy and mellow. Apr 17, 2017

Quincy aka Tiffany Samson
Seattle, WA

5.8-

How exciting to find a 5.8 on the front side that isn't yet greased up! I'm so astounded by the lovely texture and the intact holds. The first section is a little harder climbing, and then it eases up on cool nubbins and chicken heads. Maybe because it isn't greased up it feels more like 5.7+/5.8-. Recommended route. Sep 17, 2019