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Skunks in the Gym

5.10c, Sport,  Avg: 3.2 from 96 votes
FA: Dave Quinn 96
New Hampshire > Rumney > Triple Corners > Triple Corners Center

Description

This one might be a classic if it was in a better location. It is still a great climb that i might describe as a more difficult take on the style of Lonesome Dove. Hyper technical on-your-feet climbing on edges and indistinct holds leading up the slab. finding the bolts is easy but finding the path between them is often kinda tricky as the route wonders a bit.

Start at the top of the slab/scramble that gives you access top the upper middle section of Triple Corners. There is an anchor here, you should use it.

Climb up the steep sometimes wet groove chimney that leads to a nice ledge at the base of the face that is the meat of Skunks in the Gym. Climb the tricky face wondering a little till your feet are sore and you find your self at a very tricky last couple of moves to get to the anchor. There are a few ways to do it. I still don't know the "right" way, i make it feel pretty hard.

Location

in the center section of Triple Corners look for a nice steep right facing slab protected by some steep climbing up an often wet groove.

Protection

9 bolts to anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

5 years ago I pulled off the critical clipping hold right under the 3rd or the 4th bolt on the slab section.  I think the route was rated 5.10B in the old book.
[Hide Photo] 5 years ago I pulled off the critical clipping hold right under the 3rd or the 4th bolt on the slab section. I think the route was rated 5.10B in the old book.
The [[106975531]]/[[106190876]] buttress as seen from the base of the fourth-class approach ramp
[Hide Photo] The Wild Blue Yonder/Skunks in the Gym buttress as seen from the base of the fourth-class approach ramp
View of the buttress from the approach ramp. Such a cool feature!
[Hide Photo] View of the buttress from the approach ramp. Such a cool feature!
Andy scrambling up the 4th-class approach ramp.
[Hide Photo] Andy scrambling up the 4th-class approach ramp.
Andy climbing the chimney to gain the face.
[Hide Photo] Andy climbing the chimney to gain the face.
The route from the top.
[Hide Photo] The route from the top.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
[Hide Comment] Very cool climbing. don't even think you're going to muscle your way up this one Jun 11, 2009
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
 
[Hide Comment] This route is very rad :) And because of it's location, I imagine there won't be a line on it ever. (and if there is, you can see it from the ground) Jul 19, 2009
Ming
 
[Hide Comment] Climbed it again on July 14 2012. Without the hold at around the 6th bolt it's definitely harder for short people like me. What use to be a delicate move up from the hold is now a desperate smear to get to the next good crimp. I have a 5 ft 2 in span and I couldn't reach by my second at 5 ft 9 in had no problems and popped his hand right on the next crimper.

Still love it though. Great climb. Jul 23, 2012
M Sprague
New England
[Hide Comment] FA - Dave Quinn '96 Jul 23, 2012
Annaconda
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] Even if the chimney is dripping, go for it anyway. The start is not too hard and bolts are just where you want them. And the upper face is always dry! Apr 29, 2013
Ben Mackall
Bozeman, MT
 
[Hide Comment] What a seriously amazing climb. Great sustained balancy moves on a near blank face on one of the most charismatic features at Rumney, IMHO WAAAY better than Lonesome Dove as a slab climb. Excellent view, a little bit of an adventure, a funky chimney start to spice things up... jeez.

Classic. Oct 6, 2013
chris blatchley
woodinville, wa
 
[Hide Comment] great techy slab. we were wandering around past waimea and saw this route and had to climb it. it was just as much fun as it looked, a hidden gem imo. follow it up with the full effect for even more classic climbing at the grade in a totally different style. Jun 4, 2018
Etha Williams
Twentynine Palms, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Has anyone thought about putting rap rings on the belay anchor eyebolts? We scrambled up the ramp but preferred rapping to downclimbing. You can easily rap off the Lower Buttress Direct anchors, but it might be nice to avoid rapping on a route that may be crowded. We weren't sure if the eyebolts were kosher to rap directly off of--they're in great shape and we certainly were't going to die rapping off them, but we weren't sure if doing so puts undue wear on the eyebolts.

Thanks--and sorry if this is an ignorant question! Oct 8, 2018
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] That’s a fine question but those 1/2 inch glue ins are just fine for rappelling. They would be a little questionable for lowering through but as that anchor is just for belay and rappel purposes I would vote to use resources for something else. Oct 8, 2018
Etha Williams
Twentynine Palms, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Cool, thanks for the reply, Lee!

On a different note, I totally agree with Annaconda's comment: do this route even if the chimney is seeping! 10c is right at my limit and I struggled a bit at the start, but the bolts protect it so well that there's no reason not to go for it. (Also, props to whoever bolted this for placing the bolts in such a way that they can be clipped with minimal fuss and maximal protection even if you're 5'1'' like me.) Oct 9, 2018
Vincenzo Casbarro
Cambridge, MA
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Wow this route is so so good. I'd highly recommend doing Jammit Dammit to get up to the belay for this route -- doing both made for an excellent time. Like a lot of other people, we found the groove chimney to be a complete waterfall. The bolting is friendly, though, and there's a good looking pin + quick link right as you exit the notch/river. Be careful what you pull on in the wet section, though -- I pulled off a wet, fist sized chunk of rotten rock that could have caused some harm if it went flying. Nov 9, 2020