Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Band M (CLOSED)

3 Wogs T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bandit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Butcher Block T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Finally Dunn T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
General Hospital A3
Heavy Weather Sailing T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hercules S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
If Dogs Run Free T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jungle Work T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Machina Ex Deus T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Malt Therapy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Over Done T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Standard Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Understatement, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Left of Hercules S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Way Radical T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: boyd 81 ?
Page Views: 510 total, 4/month
Shared By: john strand on Jun 24, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route

1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


Formerly the hardest 5.10 in NH- brian was way strong. The steep crack(thin and thin -hands) right of Malt Therapy. Pretty hard and watch out for bee's


Thrash along the base to a small buttress- the line is pretty clear.


Cams, Cams, Cams. tree anchor


- No Photos -
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
I will redo the description so ya'll can find it Feb 13, 2012
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Wow, talk about confused. I think I hit a time warp. I thought I was responding to something from this morning, but I see now it was almost 4 years ago. Somehow Jason and chino's posts blended together and I didn't see that big description from Webster's...never mind! Feb 11, 2012
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
If somebody has more information and can flesh out the route description, if John doesn't mind, a NH admin could switch it over. Feb 11, 2012
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Chinos- I know Ed had (has) the original Albany topo. Feb 11, 2012
I grew up in Tuftonboro down the street from Albert's parents house. Maybe someday I will get a chance to stop by and see if they kept the folio or anything related to his great climbing achievements! Feb 9, 2012
Brian Boyd
Kowloon, Hong Kong
Brian Boyd   Kowloon, Hong Kong  
Albert's Shuffle is another nice route at Band M. It is short but stout: 5.10+ -- emphasis on the plus, I think -- moves up a v groove over by Bluepoint. FA by Albert Dow and Joe Lentini.

Albert had done great sketches of many of his FAs. I wonder what became of his crag folio. Sep 25, 2008
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Sorry about the vague descriptions Jason but I have not been to Band M in a LONG time. I think even before Ed's last guide around 1988.
Maybe I am even more confused than usual. Sep 24, 2008
jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
jason seaver   Estes Park, CO
It's great to have this crag, and these routes, in the database but, John, you gotta admit these descriptions are virtually worthless. I'm not totally familiar with this pitch, but it's "description " here piqued my interest enough to dust off my old guidebook to try to learn a little more. Perhaps my findings will help someone find, and repeat, the route:
I seem to remember the most logical approach to the base of the crag dumping you out in the vicinity of a route called Three Wogs, 10a, which climbs a fairly obvious feature. It takes a shallow groove past three bolts (the crux) to a ledge at 90', then climbs a kick-ass 5.7 left-facing dihedral / flake on it's second pitch. Starting ten feet left of Three Wogs is Mystery Achievement, 11d, which also has three bolts on its first pitch and looks considerably harder than Three Wogs.

Jungle Work is more than 100' left of this area. Perhaps the best way to find it is to first find the route Machina Ex Deus, 10d. Look for a slabby groove with a piton that leads to a pair of parallel finger cracks, and finally to a clean overhanging corner with a hand/fist crack. An orange lichen streak next to a beech tree marks the start. Jungle Work is 20' left of this feature and involves a short corner with an old piton to a ledge with a large pine then a twin set of overhanging finger and hand cracks. There is a 10b twin crack direct start, left of the initial corner.

Malt Therapy is 50' left of Machina Ex Deus and is described as a 50' right-leaning corner with 11a laybacking past a piton.

All this information is from Ed Webster's mid-90's guidebook to the White Mountains. I have climbed quite a bit on this complicated and excellent crag but, of the routes I've referenced here, Machina Ex Deus and Three Wogs are the only ones I've done. Sep 14, 2008
Brian Boyd
Kowloon, Hong Kong
Brian Boyd   Kowloon, Hong Kong  
FA was done on Aug 28 & 29 of 1982.

I had learned how to hand jam on the crack machines that were up in the attic above Eastern Mountain Sports. Inspired by much better climbers who would run laps, I went home and built a 30' roof crack that ranged from thin hands to fist. Albert Dow and Kenny Sims has introduced me to Warren Zevon's music, and I listened to the song 'Jungle Work' a lot while climbing in my basement. So, the name seemed like a good fit. Sep 13, 2008