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Routes in Albany Slabs

Fool's For A Day T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Gemini Dreamin' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Reelin' In the Fears T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Standard and Poors T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Tao of Dow, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Gerry Lortie and Tim Kemple Jr. ' 95 ?
Page Views: 937 total, 8/month
Shared By: john strand on Jun 24, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Private Property Details

Description

A good antidote to Reelin'. Straight up the main slab past 7 bolts, a bit run out to the first. Excellent climbing. See the COMMENTs for Beta on the differences between this and "Reelin' in the Fears".

Location

Dead center on the main slab

Protection

just bolts, a double bolt anchor on top was apparently added sometime between 2008 and 2013.

Photos

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Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
You and Tommy set a standard that will probably never be surpassed. I mean, who thinks it's normal to describe a new route in terms of the total length of all the leader falls it took to finish it (Swinging Hips, Clean Sweep)? You were either before or after your time (not sure which).... [wink] Sep 29, 2015
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Thanks peter....I'll take these routes to my grave Sep 15, 2015
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
John Strand is crazy. Everyone knows that. It's charming, really. It also makes his routes way more fun to toprope. Another nutjob example is the direct finish to Western Lady on Cathedral. I have no idea how far you would fall from the pine-needle-ridden final slab moves to the woods, but there would probably be time enough for the belayer to go grab a coffee at Starbucks and then come back and yank down on the brake hand. Since John left, there haven't been any really crazy people around here. It's a shame, really.... Sep 15, 2015
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
 
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
 
The hex is still there, welded into a pocket, but there is no runner on it and no way to reach it. Aug 9, 2015
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Originally..a couple of RP's in the seam, then up left to a pocket (sidways hex), then up to the bulge and over.

I really had trouble getting something in at the bulge, even a pin/RP.. Fell off downclimbing from there..ripping stuff and going to the hex Aug 8, 2015
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
 
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
 
Ian and I gladly and eagerly clipped the seven bolts on Fools/Reelin', and the climbing is terrific. An awesome slab climb. Here's what I don't get: where did John place the pro on his first ascent? There is really nothing there. Yesterday, Ian led it first, and his constant refrain was, "That John Strand is crazy!" If you ask me, the 1981 version of the climb (pre-bolts) was mostly a pro-less ascent. Aug 8, 2015
twellman
Cambridge
5.10- PG13
twellman   Cambridge
5.10- PG13
John, what is the difference between this and Reeling', in terms of exact line? The new guide says they're basically the same, but Fools is what they named the retro'ed version. If they are indeed mostly the same, perhaps they should be combined into one route, including the history, to avoid confusion. Jul 8, 2012
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
i gave this on to gerry for hit 30th Bday......Too bad he placed so many bolts Dec 29, 2011
Chris Graham
Bartlett, NH
  5.10b PG13
Chris Graham   Bartlett, NH
  5.10b PG13
Did this one today, the thing doesn't let up. I would agree that there are several cruxes, but the one between the 6th and 7th bolts was the hardest. Pretty heady route, but a really great line. Sep 21, 2011
Dont let the protection grade scare you, there ARE multiple cruxes very well protected with very slighly run out easier climbing inbetween solid 3/8" bolts. Jun 6, 2010