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Reelin' In the Fears

5.10 X, Trad, 120 ft (36 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 4 votes
FA: strand 81
New Hampshire > WM: Albany Area > Albany Slabs
Access Issue: Private Property Details

Description

A true death route, I only list it because the climbing is good and on great rock. This line can be tr'd easily, especially after doing Fool's.The crux is 15' from the top and your last gear is literally out of sight.
I was reeled in hand over hand after falling from the last move and only fell 70' instead of a 100'crater. Thanks guys !

See the COMMENTs to "Fools for a Day" for Beta on (slight) differences between the two routes.

Location

In the center of the main slab (on the crag's left side)some 4th class. Angle up a tiny seam then move left and go for broke up the slab past a small pocket.Overcome a bulge at the top.

Protection

Some rp's and gear for a 1" pocket . tree belay

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Mike Zarenski on Reelin'
[Hide Photo] Mike Zarenski on Reelin'

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tyler Wellman
Cambridge
 
[Hide Comment] This route is now bolted (Fools For a Day), although it is still quite spicy. Seven bolts to a 2-bolt rap anchor, with crux moves about ten feet above the second to last bolt. Definitely not X anymore, but perhaps PG13 with some big whipper potential.

Fun smeary slab climbing! Jul 8, 2012
Northeast Alpine Start
Conway, New Hampshire
[Hide Comment] Point of note, you CAN rap from that anchor with a 60m rope. Use stopper knots and you should just make the good sized tree directly under Reelin' in the Fears. Another 80 foot rap off that tree (no fixed slings) gets you to the deck. Oct 3, 2016