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Routes in Albany Slabs

Fool's For A Day T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Gemini Dreamin' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Reelin' In the Fears T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Standard and Poors T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Tao of Dow, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: strand 81
Page Views: 693 total, 6/month
Shared By: john strand on Jun 24, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Private Property Details

Description

A true death route, I only list it because the climbing is good and on great rock. This line can be tr'd easily, especially after doing Fool's.The crux is 15' from the top and your last gear is literally out of sight.
I was reeled in hand over hand after falling from the last move and only fell 70' instead of a 100'crater. Thanks guys !

See the COMMENTs to "Fools for a Day" for Beta on (slight) differences between the two routes.

Location

In the center of the main slab (on the crag's left side)some 4th class. Angle up a tiny seam then move left and go for broke up the slab past a small pocket.Overcome a bulge at the top.

Protection

Some rp's and gear for a 1" pocket . tree belay

Photos

Northeast Alpine Start
Conway, New Hampshire
Northeast Alpine Start   Conway, New Hampshire
Point of note, you CAN rap from that anchor with a 60m rope. Use stopper knots and you should just make the good sized tree directly under Reelin' in the Fears. Another 80 foot rap off that tree (no fixed slings) gets you to the deck. Oct 3, 2016
twellman
Cambridge
 
twellman   Cambridge
 
This route is now bolted (Fools For a Day), although it is still quite spicy. Seven bolts to a 2-bolt rap anchor, with crux moves about ten feet above the second to last bolt. Definitely not X anymore, but perhaps PG13 with some big whipper potential.

Fun smeary slab climbing! Jul 8, 2012