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Routes in Slab City (Right)

*Juggernaut S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
*Utopia S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
*White Heat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chaste but Tasty S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grab them by the P S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Groove Factor S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lovely Lady S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pity Committee S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pleasure Dome S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Scrawny, not Brawny S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
White Light S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Craig Britton & Chris Miller, June 2008
Page Views: 2,136 total · 18/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jun 23, 2008
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Open, with restrictions: Park on the street Details

Description [Edit]

A short left-facing corner past two bolts leads to a sloping ledge shared with Pleasure Dome. Clip the 4th bolt on that route (Pleasure Dome moves right) and continue straight up (crux) to a large sloping ledge. Finish up the featured headwall above past three more bolts to shared anchors with Groove Factor.

Location [Edit]

About 15' to the right of Pleasure Dome.

Protection [Edit]

6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor (shared w/ Groove Factor)

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What inspired this new route's name? Jun 23, 2008
C Miller
CA
  5.7
C Miller   CA  
  5.7
The nearby route White Heat and the Velvet Underground. Jun 23, 2008
Christopher Gian
California
Christopher Gian   California
The guide book resulted in some confusion I find the route beta here better. Dec 24, 2015
Alex Fletcher
Anaheim, CA
 
Alex Fletcher   Anaheim, CA
 
One of the anchor bolts is bomber. The other is super sketch. No turnable bolt head. Looks like a rivet and is very rusty. Very loose as well. Other bolts along this route were also loose upon looking more closely. Didn't have my wrench or I'd have tried to fix em. In the mean time, until that bolt is replaced I give this route a bomb. It wasn't even that good anyway.
Jun 12, 2016
Nick Andrew
  5.7+
Nick Andrew  
  5.7+
Pretty cool route. None of the moves were strenuous, but I felt like there was a lot more technical climbing than you would typically see on a 5.7. Also, the crux of the route seemed to be at the beginning going up a groove and the first bolt which protects it is quite loose. And like mentioned previously, the left anchor bolt is not in good shape! May 12, 2018

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