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Routes in Building Blocks - West
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Acid Rain T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Birthday Boy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Jimmy Grips T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Lego S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Lowe Route T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Scraps T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Stereotypic Behavior T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Technicon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Vise Grips T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Greg Lowe late 60's/early 70's |
| Page Views: | 2,585 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Past User on Jun 23, 2008 · Updates |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
This is a great route that probably has not seen more than a handful of ascents. As always I am in awe of Greg Lowe's ability- as this route was reportedly climbed without cams or sticky rubber-well before the free climbing revolution. When I did it I cleaned bushels of lichen and scale out of the crack. The rock at the start is pretty bad-both due to nesting birds showering the approach slab in debris in the area and simply being chossy granite in general. Once you get to the roof, the rock improves, the protection is great and the climbing is amazing. I think this route is the best hardish roof crack at the city of rocks- way better climbing than Skinners Roof!(for my big hands) With more ascents it will only get better.
Location
This route is located on the west side of the building blocks formation. It is the left of the two obvious parallel roof cracks- it is approx 15 Ft long and 35-40 degrees overhanging. You can walk off (a slow round about path you pick down the south west side of the formation that ends with a squeeze chimney- and requires some 5.7ish down climbing) or perhaps it would be better to rap another route if you can.
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