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Routes in Building Blocks - West

Acid Rain T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Birthday Boy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lego S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Scraps T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stereotypic Behavior T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Technicon S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Trad Line T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vise Grips T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Greg Lowe late 60's/early 70's
Page Views: 1,240 total, 11/month
Shared By: bheller on Jun 23, 2008
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

This is a great route that probably has not seen more than a handful of ascents. As always I am in awe of Greg Lowe's ability- as this route was reportedly climbed without cams or sticky rubber-well before the free climbing revolution. When I did it I cleaned bushels of lichen and scale out of the crack. The rock at the start is pretty bad-both due to nesting birds showering the approach slab in debris in the area and simply being chossy granite in general. Once you get to the roof, the rock improves, the protection is great and the climbing is amazing. I think this route is the best hardish roof crack at the city of rocks- way better climbing than Skinners Roof!(for my big hands) With more ascents it will only get better.

Location

This route is located on the west side of the building blocks formation. It is the left of the two obvious parallel roof cracks- it is approx 15 Ft long and 35-40 degrees overhanging. You can walk off (a slow round about path you pick down the south west side of the formation that ends with a squeeze chimney- and requires some 5.7ish down climbing) or perhaps it would be better to rap another route if you can.

Protection

Cams from thin fingers to big hands. No bolts, no anchor.

Photos

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Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
cool picture and a bit of info on route

issuu.com/rock-and-ice/docs… Mar 25, 2013
Brendan N
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Brendan N   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
WOW! This thing is HARD

Great locker fingers and hands on a super-physical roof

An amazing achievement for Greg Lowe Oct 19, 2009
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
This route has been seeing a little bit of traffic these days- it is much cleaner now...give it a go! Jun 23, 2009