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Routes in Odyssey

Driving at Night S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Moon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hang Ten S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Odessey T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ouch S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Tony Yaniro circa 1987
Page Views: 166 total, 1/month
Shared By: bheller on Jun 23, 2008
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

This is the obvious left leaning crack on the west side of the Odyssey formation. This formation was originally known as the "Hershey kiss" as its pointy domed top resembles the famous candy. The story is the crack was supposed to be known as "Ought to See" (coined by Stan Caldwell?) but erroneously was recorded as Odyssey. A bolt protected boulder problem guards the opening moves before one can gain the crack. Once in the crack (no small feat!) the climbing is overhanging, athletic, and well protected. The upper section (crux is 11a/b or so) was a bit dirty and quite sharp- you may want to protect those paws with some tape. Dave Bingham advises to "Sneak past the bizarre bottom crux and then contend with one of the best overhanging jam cracks at the City of Rocks." This description leads one to believe the start is really 12a and just requires one unlock a clever solution- I know many who have tried and tried not been able to free the opening moves and establish in the crack. This feels like the most 5.13 12a I've been on in the City. The good news is you can tug on that draw after you fail with the fight of your life and then reach up to the first finger lock in the crack- probably A0 11b- and damn good at that!

Location

Approach via the boxtop trailhead and walk down hill until you cross the stream (likely dry in late season) and then follow the loose sandy trail in the circle creek bottom to the Hershey kiss locking formation. Approach time approx 15 minutes. You must walk off the backside of the rock.

Protection

A single bolt protects the balls hard boulder problem start, then bring doubles of .5 to 2.5 inch cams. No anchor- it would be really nice if someone added one.

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We climbed this last week with no intention of trying to free the move past the bolt. It makes for a really nice route in the 11a/b range if you climb it like that. Jun 14, 2015
Mikec1  
Climbed Odyssey in 2007. The endurance of the overhanging jam crack was more difficult for me than the funky start. Very stiff climb for the grade. Very well protected. Mar 10, 2009
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
This would be 4 stars if not for the funky hard start. Its the kind of move that is hard in a bad way. Im curious if anyone out there has freed the opening moves lately... p.m. and let me know how it went for you. Jun 23, 2008