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Routes in Odyssey
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Driving at Night S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Half Moon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hang Ten S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Odyssey T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ouch S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Tony Yaniro circa 1987 |
| Page Views: | 1,483 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Past User on Jun 23, 2008 · Updates |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
This is the obvious left leaning crack on the west side of the Odyssey formation. This formation was originally known as the "Hershey kiss" as its pointy domed top resembles the famous candy. The story is the crack was supposed to be known as "Ought to See" (coined by Stan Caldwell?) but erroneously was recorded as Odyssey. A bolt protected boulder problem guards the opening moves before one can gain the crack. Once in the crack (no small feat!) the climbing is overhanging, athletic, and well protected. The upper section (crux is 11a/b or so) was a bit dirty and quite sharp- you may want to protect those paws with some tape. Dave Bingham advises to "Sneak past the bizarre bottom crux and then contend with one of the best overhanging jam cracks at the City of Rocks." This description leads one to believe the start is really 12a and just requires one unlock a clever solution- I know many who have tried and tried not been able to free the opening moves and establish in the crack. This feels like the most 5.13 12a I've been on in the City. The good news is you can tug on that draw after you fail with the fight of your life and then reach up to the first finger lock in the crack- probably A0 11b- and damn good at that!
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