Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: FRA: Aaron Miller, 2004
Page Views: 57 total · 0/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Jun 22, 2008
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

This crack's crux is harder than it looks, making it another good one on the Diablo trad circuit. Rock Climbing: New Mexico briefly mentions this 5.11 crack passing a hollow flake; it's not in other guides.

Find a scary looking hollow flake near a left-facing corner to the right of Ojo (del Diablo). The flake is scary, but at least the climbing is easy at this point. Climb up to this flake, place pro behind. Above is a nice left-facing hand crack; then you'll reach an overhanging flared slot through a roof with a good hand crack in the back. This is the crux, and even with good hand jams, it's harder than it looks, but only a few moves of this tricky section. Sustained hand cracks lead to the anchor at the rim.

Pro is great, after you pass the big hollow flake.

Location

This is the crack in the corner to the right of Ojo. It's very prominent in this photo with the big flake down low and the overhanging hand crack through the flare up high.
A pin-scarred line with a fixed knifeblade is in a thin aid crack to the left of the start of this climb.

Protection

Nuts and cams (with doubles of hand-size cams). 2-bolt anchor. 1 rope reaches up and back down the climb.

Photos

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Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
  5.11-
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
  5.11-
I dont know if I had the FA or not, but I assume from the amount of dirt and junk I pulled out of the wide roof section that I probably did. We put up thte anchors in '04. Yarded on that huge flake with a bar so I think it will be there for a while, though it is spooky!!

-Aaron Oct 2, 2008