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Routes in Grotto Left (East Side)

Affirmative Action S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bedeviled S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bergers Bakeshop S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Better Late than Never S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bush in a Blender S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chopping Block S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cruella de Vil S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Diabolical S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Drama Queen S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
El Areto Bolto Del Diablo S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Evil S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Evil Paradise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hidden Slab S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
High on Fire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ken's Shitty Route (K.S.R.) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lucifer's Hammer Drill S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Memory Block S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Muscle Crow S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ojo (del Diablo) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Panic Attack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Paradise City S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Prescribed Burn S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Reverend, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Snazz By Nazz (aka Access Crack, Guillotine Crack p1) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sunday Bloody Sunday (aka Tight Little Package) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Under Powered S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown (Crack right of Ojo) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Waiting to Procrastinate S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Welcome to the Jungle S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: FRA: Aaron Miller, 2004
Page Views: 41 total, 0/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Jun 22, 2008
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

This crack's crux is harder than it looks, making it another good one on the Diablo trad circuit. Rock Climbing: New Mexico briefly mentions this 5.11 crack passing a hollow flake; it's not in other guides.

Find a scary looking hollow flake near a left-facing corner to the right of Ojo (del Diablo). The flake is scary, but at least the climbing is easy at this point. Climb up to this flake, place pro behind. Above is a nice left-facing hand crack; then you'll reach an overhanging flared slot through a roof with a good hand crack in the back. This is the crux, and even with good hand jams, it's harder than it looks, but only a few moves of this tricky section. Sustained hand cracks lead to the anchor at the rim.

Pro is great, after you pass the big hollow flake.

Location

This is the crack in the corner to the right of Ojo. It's very prominent in this photo with the big flake down low and the overhanging hand crack through the flare up high.
A pin-scarred line with a fixed knifeblade is in a thin aid crack to the left of the start of this climb.

Protection

Nuts and cams (with doubles of hand-size cams). 2-bolt anchor. 1 rope reaches up and back down the climb.

Photos

- No Photos -
Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
  5.11-
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
  5.11-
I dont know if I had the FA or not, but I assume from the amount of dirt and junk I pulled out of the wide roof section that I probably did. We put up thte anchors in '04. Yarded on that huge flake with a bar so I think it will be there for a while, though it is spooky!!

-Aaron Oct 2, 2008