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Paradox

5.12d, Sport, 70 ft,  Avg: 3 from 11 votes
FA: T. Armstrong
New Hampshire > Rumney > New Wave
Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

Stemming, underclings, long powerful reaches to edges and sidepulls topped by a thin and balancy finish with a sinker hand slot to clip the anchor.

A perplexing move to gain the corner leads to a mix of 5.11 stemming and face moves up to the 4th bolt and a no-hands rest in the corner at right.

Move left past the 5th bolt and up through a series of underclings. Power up and left, then punch it some more to gain a positive sidepull. Crimp your way over the bulge on good edges to a thin stance. Rest and regroup for the final set of balancy moves up an incipient seam and thin face holds. Some fun!

Location

Starts to the right of Dark Star, climbs the corner, then moves left onto the face to the top.

Protection

8 Bolts to LO.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12d
[Hide Comment] nice description... ive been wondering what this route was like... thanks... Jun 23, 2008