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Routes in Haji Rock

Exit Wound S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 160 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jared Nielson, Jason Stevens
Page Views: 5,491 total, 47/month
Shared By: Tosh Peters on Jun 19, 2008 with updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


34 Opinions

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Description

P1: Locate a bolt line on the east side of the formation which starts up an easy arete. The arete gets steeper and eventually turns into a small tower. Two-chain belay at the top of the tower, 30m.

P2: Stem or fall across the "Gap of Flatulence" to regain the main formation. Climb up 2 or 3 bolts to a big ledge ("Camp blessing") and walk around the boulder to a two-bolt belay.

P3: Climb up a steep section (.9+) past 4 bolts to the top of Haji Rock rock and the summit register. The belay is in an awkward location but the amazing free rappel makes up for it.

Descent

Free-hanging rappel from the summit to the top of P1, then another 30 meters to the ground.

Location

Once you find the formation from The Pipe Dream move towards it on a trail. Cut off the trail and move up a tree-filled gully that is down-canyon from the formation.

Protection

All bolts.
Seth Hogan
Frisco, Co
  5.9
Seth Hogan   Frisco, Co
  5.9
I liked starting pitch 2 and you get a short free hanging rappel. Those were the highlights. I had a little trouble getting to the route; you take a right before birthday corridor on a vague climbers trail. Dec 3, 2016
Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
  5.10a
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
  5.10a
It's funny that this route is rated off of the third pitch, which is literally 20 feet tall and coincidentally a 5.9+ (I'd actually say the moves are 5.10a ish though).

Great climb though! The first pitch is awesome. You get some great height, and some great vertical climbing on some beautiful cobblestone. The 2nd pitch is pretty interesting. Very short, and little boulder-y. Probably a little more tricky and intimidating than the first pitch to be honest!

The last pitch is burly. A real nice overhang with great holds. One of the big cobblestones you use on the first move is about to come out. Be careful! You'll notice a huge crack in it.

To reduce rope drag ontop of the last pitch, I just built my anchor, pulled out 15ft or so of slack, then clove hitched in. Then walked back over to the ledge where I had just climbed and then belayed my partner up on an ATC Guide off of a figure-8 on a bite in the rope. Worked great!

Overall, a great multipitch. Variety on every pitch and a great view at the top. Oct 30, 2012
C Hopwood
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
C Hopwood   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
This route is a great multi-pitch for Maple and a perfect morning outing if you are planning on climbing the Pipe Dream in the afternoon. It could really use an additional set of chains or bolts on the summit. The current ones are in a terrible location, especially since you are belaying your partners up the crux pitch. Tons of rope drag, and the sharp rocks my rope was pulling across really sketched me out. Aug 13, 2012
Eric Godfrey
slc, ut
 
Eric Godfrey   slc, ut
 
Done this a couple times now. Last two times I've rappelled the final drop in one rap with a 70M. It barely reaches the base with rope stretch. Even if you are a little shy of the bottom though, the final section can be easily downclimbed (tie a knot in the end still, just in case). Jul 21, 2010
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
  5.10a
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
  5.10a
Yea, really fun and scenic route! Thanks FAers for all the hard work! Be carefull topping out as there is lots of loose on top. Also the firt rap has a somewhat hard pull so make it easier by pulling most of the rope from the top after the first goes down. Sep 28, 2009
Eric Godfrey
slc, ut
 
Eric Godfrey   slc, ut
 
Super fun multipitch, (this was my first multipitch and is a good one to start out on) great belay ledges, the step-over on the second pitch makes the route twice as cool. I'll repeat this one for sure. Apr 19, 2009